Electric Double Wall/Built-in Whirlpool Oven Dead? Could be open thermal fuse

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven

 

Does your oven display look like this?  Is the oven completely dead, whether or not you’ve already had the control board rebuilt by a PCB repair company?  This is probably just the result of an open fuse in-line with the black “hot” wire to the control board transformer.

 

Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity through the fuse.  If open, it needs to be replaced.   If the fuse is OK, but the board is totally dead, check that there is 120VAC across the “hot” wire with fuse and white neutral wire in the caddy-corner wiring harness.  If you’re getting 120VAC there but the board is still completely dead, consult a PCB repair company to get the board repaired.

 

PART NUMBERS:

4448876, 4452242

MODEL NUMBERS: 

GBD277PDB0, GBD307PDQ0, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PD02, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDD4, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ4, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB4, RBD305, RBD305PD04, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ3, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ1, RBD307PDB4, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4, GBD277PDB1, GBD307PD, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDS1, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ6, RBD245PR, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ6, RBD275PDQ8, RBD276PDB6, RBD276PDD6, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDBG, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB06, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ6, RBD386PDQ6, RBD275PDB6, GBD277PDB1, RBD275PDQ6, RBD306PDB6, RBD245PDB6, GBD307PDS1, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ6, GBD277PDQ1, RBD276PDB6, GBD307PDB1, RBD245PDQ6, RBD276PDQ6, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDT1, GDB277PDB1, GDB277PDQ1, RBD305PDQ6, RBD305PDB6, RBD275PDQ2, , RBD275PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD306PDB1, , RBD245PDB1, RBD275PDB1, , RBD275PDQ1, , RBD275PDQ4, RBD305PDQ4, GBD307PDB0, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PDB2, , RBD275PDQ3, RBD277PDQ2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ3, RBD245PDB3, RBD276PDQ2, RBD276PDQ4, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ4, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDQ0, GBD307PDQ0, PBK1227, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD275PDB3, RBD276PDB1, RBD276PDB2, RBD276PDB4, RBD276PDQ1, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB3, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBD306PDZ4, RBD307PDB1, RBD307PDB2, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4

 

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing E1F2? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/KitchenAid Oven

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your Whirlpool/KitchenAid  oven?  Don’t worry, we have a new keypad solution.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.

For $300 or less, you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like E1F2. Applianceboards can custom build new, more robust, membrane switches that stick right onto your original panel.

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 

PARTS:

 

4451066, 4451067, 4452035, 4452036, 4451322, 4451323, 4452040, 4452041, 4451301, 4451302, 4451304, 4451305, 4451307, 4451308, 4451310, 4451311, 4451313, 4451314, 4451316, 4451327, 4451328, 4451333, 4451334, 4451336, 4451337, 4451339, 4451340, 4451341, 4451342, 4451343, 4451345, 4451346, 4451347, 4451348, 8300457, 8300460, W10161677

MODELS: 

CAWX629JQ0, EAT19PMW6, EAT19PTWR6, EAT19PTW6, ED20TQXEW00, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDB1, GBD277PDQ0, GBD277PDQ1, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDB0, GBD307PDB1, GBD307PDQ0, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDS1, GBS277PDB0, GBS277PDB1, GBS277PDQ0, GBS277PDQ1, GBS277PDS1, GBS307PDB0, GBS307PDB1, GBS307PDQ0, GBS307PDQ1, GBS307PDS1, GBS307PDT1, GMC275PDB0, GMC275PDB1, GMC275PDQ0, GMC275PDQ1, GMC275PDS1, GMC305PDB1, GMC305PDQ0, GMC305PDQ1, GSC308PJB2, GSC308PJB3, GSC308PJB4, GSC308PJQ2, GSC308PJQ3, GSC308PJQ4, GSC308PJS2, KEMC307KBL0, KEMC308KBL0, KEMC308KBT0, KEMC308KSS0, KEMC308KWH0, KEMS308GBL3, KEMS308GSS0, KEMS308GSS1, KEMS308GSS2, KEMS308GSS3, KEMS308GWH3, LA7800XTN1, M1100, PDB1420AWX, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB3, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD245PDQ4, RBD245PDQ6, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ3, RBD275PDQ4, RBD275PDQ6, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDQ4, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBS245PDB1, RBS245PDB2, RBS245PDB4, RBS245PDB6, RBS245PDQ1, RBS245PDQ2, RBS245PDQ4, RBS245PDQ6, RBS275PDB1, RBS275PDB2, RBS275PDB4, RBS275PDB6, RBS275PDQ1, RBS275PDQ2, RBS275PDQ4, RBS275PDQ6, RBS277PDB1, RBS305PDB1, RBS305PDB2, RBS305PDB4, RBS305PDB6, RBS305PDQ1, RBS305PDQ2, RBS305PDQ4, RBS305PDQ6, RBS305PDZ1, RB788GD1, and more

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing F1/F7? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef Oven

Can’t buy a  keypad for your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef  oven?  Don’t worry, there is a keypad solution that costs less than $130.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.   The model series is RB26, CWE9, W131, A947, C987, 9875, CWE7, 7721 and A987  from  the following manufactures:  Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper

 

For $120 (click here) , you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom-built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/JennAir/Magic Chef/Maytag ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 or F7.  The modification fits a new membrane switch on top of your original panel.

Common JennAir/Maytag Obsolete Touchpad

drill_out_wknob_annot

Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 
Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”

PARTS:

4381512 – $120 on Amazon

4381513 – $150 on Amazon,

74001423 – $150 on Amazon

74001424 – $150 on Amazon

74001230 –$150 on Amazon

74001231 – $150 on Amazon

7721P036-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P040-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P041-60 – $150 on Amazon

879472 – $150 on Amazon

879473 – $150 on Amazon

879476 – $150 on Amazon

879477 – $150 on Amazon

Don’t see your part number or model number? Have questions? Contact info@applianceboards.com.
MODELS: 

CWE9000BCE, CWE9000BDE, CWE9000CDE, CWE9000DDE, CWE9000BCB, CWE9000DDB, CWE9000BDB, CWE9000CDB, 9475VRV, 9875VRV, 9475XRB, 9875XRB, A9475XRB, A9475VRV, A9875XRB,  A9875VRV, C9875VRV, C9875XRB, L9875XRB, RB262PXAB0, RB262PXAB1, RB262PXAB2, RB262PXAB3, RB262PXAB4, RB262PXAB5, RB262PXAB6, RB262PXAQ0, RB262PXAQ2, RB262PXAQ3, RB262PXAQ4, RB262PXAQ5, RB262PXAQ6, RB262PXAW0, W131B, W131W, W131W-C

F1 Error Code in Whirlpool RB160, RB260, RB270, RB770, RF396, RM765, RM770, RS675, RS696 Series Ovens and Thermador RDDS30, RDF30, RDFS30, RDSS30, RED30, REF30, RES30, RSS30 Series Ovens

This article refers to a specific problem we’ve been encountering with two different types of oven control boards – the relevant model and part numbers can be found at the end of the article.

These control boards can throw F1 error codes in response to a variety of failures.  Often, these error codes are the result of bad power supply or logic control circuits that can be repaired at FixYourBoard.com.  However, we have been finding that even after a control board is rebuilt and passes a full function test, it still throws F1 when reinstalled in the original oven.  How can this be?

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

It turns out that these control boards connect to the platinum temperature sensing rods through wire nuts.  The connection in the wire nut is going high resistance, which causes the control board to think the oven cavity is over temperature…resulting in an F1 overheat error code.  This connection seems especially susceptible to temperature change as well, so this problem is especially apparent as you start heating the oven.

So, if you’ve had your board rebuilt by FixYourBoard.com or recently got the board replaced, and you’ve replaced the temperature sensor, but you’re still getting an F1, inspect these wire nuts!  The easiest way to find the wire nuts will be to follow the wiring with your hand (make sure the breaker is off) from the temperature sensor (or from the board if you know which wires go to the sensor).

You will likely find that the wiring inside the nut has rusted/corroded.  We recommend you cut off the already exposed portions of the wire and strip some insulation off, allowing “fresh” wire to be reconnected in a new wire nut.

Remember to have all your control board needs handled at FixYourBoard.com!

 

Part Numbers: 14-33-347, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258, 3169259, 486752

Model Numbers: RB160PXB02, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXYB6, RB170PXB02, RB170PXBB, RB170PXBQ2, RB260PBYQ, RB260PXB1, RB260PXBB1, RB260PXBB2, RB260PXBQ, RB260PXBQ1, RB260PXBQ2, RB260PXYB, RB260PXYB0, RB260PXYB1, RB260PXYQ, RB260PXYQ0, RB270PXBB0, RB270PXBB1, RB270PXBO1, RB270PXBQ2, RB270PXY, RB270PXYB, RB270PXYB RB270PXYB-0, RB270PXYB1, RB270PXYQ, RB270PXYQ0, RB270RXBB1, RB760POXYB2, RB760PXB, RB760PXB01, RB760PXBB0, RB760PXBB2, RB760PXBQ, RB760PXYQ, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXBQ1, RB770PXBQ2, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RDDS30, RDDS30QVB, RDDS30RS, RDDS30RVS, RDDS30V, RDDS30VPS, RDDS30VQ, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VQS, RDDS30VQW, RDDS30VRS, RDDS30VRS/01, RDDS30VRS/02FD, RDDS30VRS/03SD, RDDS30VRS03, RDDS30VRSFD, RDDS30ZQB, RDF30, RDF30Q, RDF30QB, RDF30QS, RDF30QW, RDF30QW RDF30RS, RDF30RS, RDFS30, RDFS30QS, RDFS30QW, RDFS30RS, RDS30V, RDS530RS, RDSF30RS, RDSS30, RDSS304S, RDSS30Q, RDSS30QB, RDSS30QW, RDSS30QW RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS-02, RED30RS01, RED30V, RED30VQB RED30VQBK, RED30VQW, RED30VRS, REF30, REF30QS, REF30RS, RES30QW, RES30RS, RF396PXYN, RF768PXYQ, RFB260PXBQ2, RH770PXBQ2, RM765PXAB0, RM765PXBB2, RM770PXBB1, RM770PXBB2, RM770PXBQ2, RS6755XYN1, RS6755XYW0, RS675PXBQ1, RS675PXBQ2, RS675PXYQ0, RS677PXYQ, RS696B02, RS696PXBB2, RS696PXYB, RS696PXYB0, RS696PXYB2, RS696TXYQ02, RS69PXBB3, RSS30RS, RX260PXYQ01, W305B, WPLRM770PXAB0

F1, F2, F3 Errors With Whirlpool Series 8RBS2 GBS27 GBS30 RBS24 RBS27 RBS30 RS610 Built-In Ovens

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

This write-up is brought to you by A PCB REPAIR COMPANY.

Does this board look familiar?  The different part number variations are:  4453701, 4452892, 8301345, 8301465, 4453193, 4452900, 8186024, 8303885, W10340935, 8301919

Common Rebuild Part 4452892 and 4452900 Part

Common Rebuild Part 4452892 and 4452900 Part

This board type if often sent in to PCB repair companies.  Even more often, we get a question regarding error codes and how to determine if the controller is at fault. Well, every case is a little different, but these are the 4 most common error types that we see.  3 out of the 4 usually mean the controller is the culprit.    The common models that this applies to are 8RBS2 GBS27 GBS30 RBS24 RBS27 RBS30 RS610:  The most common are:

F1 / E1, E2, E3,E4, E5  – Control Board needs to be rebuilt/replaced

F3/ E0, F3/E2  – These are temperature sense problems.  Usually this means the board has a problem, but check you temperature sensor at room temperature.  If it is about 1080 ohms, the temperature sensor is good and the problem lies with the control board.  Send it in.

F5/E1  -Door latch will not lock.  This means the controller tried to lock the door during a self test, but it stayed un-locked.  Check the door lock motor and switches, but usually, this is the control board with the problem.

F2/E1 – “Keypad keytail not connected” –  Check the connection from the plastic keypad panel to the control board.  If it is snug, the problem is with the plastic touchpad, not the control board.

 

This board set is commonly seen in the following model numbers : GBS277PDB5, GBS277PDB6, GBS277PDB7, GBS277PDB8, GBS277PDQ5, GBS277PDQ6, GBS277PDQ7, GBS277PDQ8, GBS277PDS5, GBS277PDS6, 8RBS245PDQ1, GBS277PDB3, GBS277PDB4, GBS277PDQ3, GBS277PDQ4, GBS277PDS3, GBS277PDS4, GBS277PDT3, GBS307PDB3, GBS307PDB4, RBS275PDB13, RBS275PDQ13, RBS275PDT13, RS610PXGV7, RS610PXGW7, GBS277PRB01, GBS277PRQ01, GBS277PRS01, GBS277PRS02, GBS307PRB01, GBS307PRB03, GBS307PRQ01, GBS307PRQ03, GBS307PRS01, GBS307PRS02, RBS245PRB06, RBS245PRS, RBS245PRS04, RBS245PRS06, RBS245PRT, RBS275PVQ, RBS305PVS00, RBS307PVQ00, GBS277PDB11, GBS277PDB12, GBS277PDQ11, GBS277PDQ12, GBS277PDS11, GBS277PDS12, GBS277PDT11, GBS277PDT12, GBS307PDB11, GBS307PDB12

Dim Display on Whirlpool Built-in Oven? Check for Corroded Wire Nuts. RBD YGBD Series

Another troubleshooting tip from a PCB repair company.

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A very nice lady from Houston sent us the oven controller from her Whirlpool RBD275 built-in double oven. We rebuilt and returned … then got it back a while later with a note saying the display is very dim. We powered it up on our test bench and the display looks great. After discussions w/nice lady the syptoms were: I can read the blue clock ok (but not great), I can’t read the temp display after a few seconds of starting bake.

 

So, long story short … wire nut connections on the main power feed to her oven are corroded … a few seconds after you push “start” the bake relay kicks in and draws high current causing the control board voltage to droop.

On the bench we hooked up a Variac (variable transformer) to test at proper and then compare to drooped voltage. You can see in the pictures that at full voltage display looks great (lower)  but with the line voltage dropped to 91V (upper) you can still read clock but the orange digits are almost gone. It’s a characteristic of the display technology (vacuum flourescent display – VFD).

 

It’s a good quick visual to see failing breakers and oxidized wire nuts (at least once they’re degraded enough to add about 0.5 ohms of resistance to power feed).

Simulated affect of voltage drop across faulty wire-nuts

Simulated effect of voltage drop across faulty wire-nuts

Part numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966.

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Note, The text for this article was taken directly from a recent post on http://appliantology.org/topic/42157-whirlpool-oven-dim-display-and-wire-nuts

Dead Whirlpool? Built-In Oven 2DLSQ KAWE6 KEBI2 KEBS2 Series – No Beeps or Light

Another troubleshooting tip from www.FixYourBoard.com :

Dead Whirlpool Board?  Look like this?  If so, continue.

Whirlpool Control Board

8301924, 8301924, 4451986 Built In Oven Controller

Relevant Boards: 4448871, 8301924, 4451986

Relevant Models: 2DLSQ8000JQ0, KAWE660WAL1, KEBS207DAL1, KEBS207DAL2, KEBS207DAL4, KEBS207DAL6, KEBS207DBL1, KEBS207DBL2, KEBS207DBL4, KEBS207DBL6, KEBI206DBL8, KEBI206DWH8, KEBI276DBL7, KEBI276DWH7, KEBS207DBL7, KEBS207DBL8, KEBS207DBT7, KEBS207DBT8, KEBS207DWH7, KEBS207DWH8.

Since these control boards get a full functional test before leaving your facility, the unresponsive/dead control board is probably due to the transformer.  With an AC meter, this can easily be checked at the P17 / P800 10 pin connector.   The referred connector is the one shown below that is connected to the transformer:

P19 or P800 10 Pin Molex Connector

P19 or P800 10 Pin Molex Connector on Side of Board

Simply check the following voltages with your meter in AC mode.  The voltages are specified on the transformer.  If any of the secondary voltages (not black and white wires that should be 120V) are zero, you need a new transformer.

Black to White – 120Volts AC.  This is the input to the transformer so if this is bad, the problem may not be the transformer.  The input power going to P15

Brown to Brown – 25Volts AC

Yellow to Yellow – 23Volts AC

Purple to Purple – 7Volts AC

It is written on the transformer:

Common Whirlpool Transformer 9760589

Transformer for 4448871, 8301924, 4451986

In summary:

-If the the high voltage (120V on black and white) is zero then the input power into the board (check your wiring diagram) needs to be checked.

-If any of the low voltage measurements (less than 30V) are zero, replace the transformer and you should be good.

-If the input power to the board is 120V but the black and white 120V wires on the transformer are zero, the board is the problem.

Hope this helps.  If you are confident that the board is the issue, these can be fixed quickly and reliable at www.fixyourboard.com

Temperature Control Problems and F2,F3,F1 error codes with Whirlpool Series RB160 RB170 RS675 Built-In Ovens

If your oven has a controller that looks like this and has erratic temperature control issues, it is very likely a problem with the controller.  At www.FixYourBoard.com we commonly get questions regarding these controllers.

The electronic controllers can be referred to as any of the following: 3169255, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258,  3169259,  3182391, 3182392, 3184943

 

When the  temperature is erratic and the oven frequently has trouble reaching temperature, even an experienced tech may have difficulty troubleshooting.  It is difficult to nail down because once the temperature control circuit begins to fail, you will see heating elements not coming on or staying on too long at random times.  This can also lead to F1,F2 or F3 errors.  The good news is that any of these controllers can be rebuild quickly and reliably with a  success rate that is over 95%.

List of Whirlpool model numbers:

WPLRM770PXAB0, RB160PXBB0, RB160PXBB1, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXBQ0, RB160PXYB0, RB160PXYB2, RB160PXYB3,  RB160PXYB4,  RB160PXYQ0,  RB160PXYQ2,  RB160PXYQ3,  RB160PXYQ4, RB160PXYQ6,  RB170AM,  RB170PXBB, RS6755xyn, RB760PXB, RB270PXYB, RB260PXYB, RB260PXBB2,  RB270PXYB, RB260PXBQ2, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RS696PXBB2,  RM765PXAB0, RM770PXBB2, RF396PXYN, RFB260PXBQ2, RF385PXYQ1,

 

Whirlpool Double Oven (Gold, GBD, RBD series) not heating? Could be an open thermal fuse.

Hello!

Today’s article will help you figure out why the bake/broil elements in your oven(s) aren’t heating up, even though the control panel seems to be operating perfectly.  In fact, you may even have recently received a refurbished/repaired control unit from www.FixYourBoard.com, but the oven still won’t heat up.  Fear no longer – this blog will get you on the right track in no time.

This guide is for troubleshooting Whirlpool double ovens – please refer to the list of relevant part and model numbers at the bottom of this blog to ensure you are in the right place.

First off, does your control panel seem to be functional? If the display isn’t illuminated, and there are no beeps when you press buttons, but you’re positive you’ve properly hooked up the control board and have the breaker on, then you may have an issue with the power supply to the control board.  Please refer to this guide for troubleshooting the power supply.

So everything seems to be properly connected.   You set the oven to bake, the display shows that the heat is on (the door needs to be closed), but the oven elements aren’t heating up at all, and the control is not throwing any error codes.  This is almost certainly being cause by an open “oven shutdown thermal fuse”.  There is one of these fuses for both the lower oven and the upper oven, each.  Hopefully, you’re only having this problem in one of the two, but it wouldn’t be too surprising if both thermal fuses went out, and it’s not hard to replace them.   Now, if the elements do heat up, even if it’s just a little bit, then the problem is either with the oven (temperature) sensor or the oven control board – please refer to this blog for troubleshooting that issue.

 

CUT THE BREAKER!!! These next steps involve measuring circuit elements that run at HIGH VOLTAGE WHICH CAN KILL YOU when the breaker is on.

You’ll want to have a DMM or DVM (Digital Multi/Voltage Meter) that can measure electrical resistance.  There is a large variety of inexpensive meters available.  Below are two different kinds of meters – both are set to check for electrical resistance of up to 200 ohms (Ω).  Set your meter to the 200 Ω scale, and make sure the probes are connected to the common (black) and voltage (red) ports.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

First, let’s make sure the actual heating elements are not the problem.  You need to have the control board exposed, but still hooked up to the oven, and THE BREAKER SHOULD BE OFF. Near the element relays are the wiring tabs where the heating elements connect to the control board.  The upper oven elements are fed by the set of tabs labeled P18.  There should be two black wires on the two center tabs, and a red wire and an orange wire which connect to the outside tabs.  Stick your probes into the sockets where the orange and red wires connect to the board – you should be in the ballpark of 50 Ω.  The lower oven is fed by the other set of tabs, labeled P26.  Here, we want to stick the probes into the sockets occupied by the red (outside) and orange (center) wires – should also be around 50 Ω.   If these measurements check out, skip the rest of this paragraph.  If either one of these measurements are significantly far from 50 Ω (e.g. <35 Ω or >65 Ω) , or especially if the meter over-ranges (usually meters display a “1” on the far right of the screen when they over-range), then you need to individually inspect the element(s) in question.  Oven models are unique so I can’t give specific information on how to extract the heating elements from the oven cavity – you may want to have a technician do this with you – but it’s usually just a matter of removing some mounting screws, and you may have to get behind the oven to disconnect the wiring.  The heating elements are essentially long metal rods bent into a radiator-like shape (they’re basically radiators, after all).  The resistance from end-to-end of a broil (top) element should be about 20 Ω, and it should be about 30 Ω for a bake (bottom) element.  If any of these elements fail to meet approximate spec, they should probably be replaced – contact a technician.  If the elements are fine, but the measurements on the control board were bad, then it’s a wiring/connection issue.

So the elements aren’t the problem, but the thermal fuses could still definitely be bad – let’s see.  For these ovens, there are two different styles of control boards, which we’ll refer to as 2319 and 2697.  The easy way to tell which one you have is by looking at the right side of the back of the board: if it has two DLB (Double Line Break; photos below) relays, then it is a 2319, otherwise it’s a 2967.  Go to the appropriate paragraph.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302967 – no DLB relays.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302319 – has DLB relays.

Often, Whirlpool Control Board 8302319 is in a Plastic Case.

Troubleshooting 2319

Your board has the DLB relays.   Let’s check the upper oven thermal fuse first.  The upper oven DLB relay should have two solid red wires connected to it, and we need to figure out which one to use for the fuse test.  First, with your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, hold a probe to each of the contacts for the red wires – it should over-range, meaning that it is an open circuit (if your meter registers any resistance within the 200 Ω scale, then the relay is stuck and you need to send the board to www.FixYourBoard.com to be repaired).  Now, look at the other (lower oven) DLB relay.  This one should have one solid red wire, and one red wire with a white stripe.  The solid red wire on the lower oven DLB relay should be in closed circuit to one of the solid red wires on the upper oven DLB relay, and it should be open circuit to the other solid red wire.  Use your meter to find out which one – the meter should register a value (somewhere around 20-30 Ω) for the closed circuit, and it should over-range for the open circuit.  We want to use the solid red wire on the upper oven DLB that is open circuit to the solid red wire on the lower oven DLB.  Hold one of the probes to the contact for that solid red wire, and stick the other probe into either the orange or red wire socket connected to the P18 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced – take a note of that for now.

Now let’s look at the lower oven thermal fuse.  Hold one of your probes to the contact for the red wire with a white stripe that connects to the lower oven DLB relay.  Stick the other probe into the orange wire socket connected to the P26 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced.  Skip the 2967 troubleshooting paragraph to see about replacing these fuses.

Troubleshooting 2967

Your board does not have the DLB relays.  With your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, stick one of the probes into the socket for either the red or the orange wire that connects to the P18 tabs on the board.  Stick the other probe into the socket for the orange wire that connects to the P26 tabs.  In normal conditions, this should be a closed circuit – the meter should read a value around 40-60 Ω.  If the meter over-ranges, then either one or both of the thermal fuses are open.

Bad Thermal Fuse

The meter has told us one or both of the thermal fuses are bad.  These are mounted on the rear panel(s) of the oven(s), so you’re going to have to pull the double oven out from the kitchen wall to access them.  Open up the rear panel(s) of the oven(s) (some hardware will probably required), and you should find the thermal fuses mounted on the panel.  A red wire and an orange wire should be connected to one side of the fuse, while just one red wire is connected to the other side of the fuse.  This will be true of both the upper and lower thermal fuses, with one exception: if your oven is not self-cleaning, the lower thermal fuse will only have one orange wire on one side and one red wire on the other.  Disconnect the wiring and unmount the suspect fuse(s).  Use your meter to verify that the fuse(s) is/are open – holding one probe to each of the contacts should result in over-ranging in the 200 Ω scale if the fuse is open.  Contact a local appliance parts supplier or a site like www.RepairClinic.com to find the necessary replacement according to the part number and/or color markings on the fuse…

Color Markings___________Whirlpool Part Number

Pink/White Stripe__________4452223

Yellow/White Stripe________4451442

Red ____________________4450934

Orange/White Stripe________4450334

Blue____________________4450250

Green/White Stripe_________4450249

Blue/White Stripe__________8300802

Well that wraps it up! Hope all goes well in the kitchen, and always feel free to contact www.FixYourBoard.com for inquiries into control board repair/maintenance.

-Young Padawan

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Part Numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966

Whirlpool RM278, RM288 series with common failures (Blanking display, F1, F2 and F3 errors, random resetting and beeping)

3148270, 3148271, 3148272, 3148273, 3148274, 3148275 are common control boards that have been showing up at www.FixYourBoard.com.   They fit into the following model numbers:  RM288PXS0, RM288PXV4, RM288PXV5,  RM288PXV6,  RM288PXV7,  RM278BXS0,  RM278BXV0,  RM278BXV2,  RM278BXV4,  RM278BXV5, RM278BXV6 ,RM278BXV7.  There are slight variations in color and functionality, but they are similar to the following:

The common failures are blanking display, random clock resets, F1, F2, F2 errors, and beeping/chirping noises.    No worries, all these symptoms can be repaired.  There is no reason to buy new as the warranty on refurbished timers is longer that a new.  Contact www.fixyourboard.com for more information.