Cross-Compatibility Reference for Common Oven Control Board Part Numbers

Manufacturers and appliance parts dealers have multiple part numbers for each electronic control board in your home range/ovens.  If you’re looking to get one of these parts or have it repaired by this PCB repair company, it will be helpful to know all of the different part numbers applicable to your unit.  Fortunately for you, we are providing this handy reference chart for the most common oven control boards coming through our lab…see below.

 

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

 

Oven Control Board Part Numbers Compatibility Reference Table

PART NUMBERAlternative Part Numbers
8302319W10406070, 8301917, 8302152, 8302319R, 2025673, AH3497633, AP5272198,EA3497633, PS3497633
2307028W10219463, AP4411082, 2252111, 2223443, 2303934, 2307005, W10185291, 1548001, AH2360723, EA2360723, PS2360723
44528908302967, AP3767567, 4451991, 4451856, 4452898, 4453664, 4453664, 1057546, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354
WB27K5048AP2025104, 346514, WB27K5119, WB27K5119
44519918302967, AP3767567, 4451856, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 4453664, 1057546, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354
44536648302967, AP3767567, 4451991, 4451856, 4452890, 4452898, 1057546, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354
W10219463AP4411082, 2307028, 2252111, 2223443, 2303934, 2307005, W10185291, 1548001, AH2360723, EA2360723, PS2360723
WB27K5040AP2025100
WB27K5047AP2025103
WB27K5073AP2025121
WB27K5107WB27K5140, AP2025145, WB27K5162, WB27K5107, WB27K5140, WB27K5162
44528988302967, AP3767567, 4451991, 4451856, 4452890, 4453664, 4453664, 1057546, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354
WB27K5190AP2025165
8303883W10340941, AP4909214, W10244191, 8303817, 8303883R, 1877910, AH3489770, EA3489770, PS3489770
14-33-347486752, AP2836528, 35-00-571, 487604, 35-00-751
WB27K5195AP2025167, WB27K5170, WB27K5195
W10121049W10219462, AP4429562, 2304135, 1548000, AH2360722, EA2360722, PS2360722
486752AP2836528, 14-33-347, 35-00-571, 487604, 35-00-751
8302967AP3767567, 4451991, 4451856, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 4453664, 1057546, AH973354, EA973354, PS973354
2252159AP3772918, 2221501, 2221522, 2215946, 2254739, 2254739, 2252071, 8201521, 2252097, 2252095
WB27X5482AP2026716
492069AP3383664, 14-38-903, 16-10-660, 35-00-760, 431463, 486329, 486792, 00491433, 491433
WB27K5046AP2025102, WB27K5116, WB27K5116
Y0315570AP3970755, 0315570
WB27K5140AP2025145, WB27K5107, WB27K5162, WB27K5107, WB27K5162
4452242AP3030378, 4452242R
WB27K5123AP2025136
4448876AP2929179, 4448876R
318010700AP2127072, 499452, AH440925, EA440925, PS440925
31944801AP4041311, 0315569, Y0315569, Y0315569, W10171687
7601P214-60AP382957, 7601P214-60R, W10125294,, AP4103856, 879478
7601P432-60AP4009450, 12001620, 74002006, 74002007, 74002966, 74002967, 74002968, 400597, 74002006, 74002967, 74002007, 74002966, 74002968
44519864453661, AP3175498, 4453165, 4453135, 4452904, 4453379, 939594, AH731496, EA731496, PS731496
WB27K5172AP2025155
WB12K005WB27T10083, AP2632694, WB12K10, WB12K12, WB12K5, WB12K0010, WB12K0012
WB19X266AP2022869, 342146
7601P233-60AP4102875, 4381514, 709272, AH2090625, EA2090625, PS2090625
WB27K5210AP2025174, WB27K5120, WB27K5121, WB27K5121
8301917W10406070, AP5272198, 8302319, 8302152, 8302319R, 2025673, AH3497633, EA3497633, PS3497633
Y04100264AP4283511, 04100264, 704729, 04100264R, 7-4729, Y704729, 1242523, AH1754947, EA1754947, PS1754947, Y04100264R, Y704729
7601P510-60AP4283511, 04100264, 704729, 04100264R, 7-4729, Y704729, 1242523, AH1754947, EA1754947, PS1754947, Y04100264R, Y704729
44528928186024, AP3177932, 4453193, 4452900, 961211, AH734569, EA734569, PS734569
44529008186024, AP3177932, 4453193, 4452892, 961211, AH734569, EA734569, PS734569
3169256-A3169258, AP3095479, 3182391
2307028HW10219463, AP4411082, 2252111, 2223443, 2303934, 2307005, W10185291, 1548001, AH2360723, EA2360723, PS2360723
WB27K5213AP2025177
62692AP3390975, 701002, 755676, 82983, 82759, 82382
3169257-A3169259, AP3095480, 3182392

Whirlpool oven is dead – no display, no beeping. Does the control board need to be repaired?

Young Padawan, here, with another guide from FixYourBoard.com.  We’ve been witnessing some confusion people are having in diagnosing their power supplies for Whirlpool ovens, and whether or not they should send the board in to FixYourBoard.com for repair.  Hopefully this will help clear that up!

To make a good diagnosis, you’ll need to have a voltmeter that can measure AC voltages up to over 120 V.  And please exercise caution when making these measurements – you could shock yourself with high voltage which can kill you! If you’ve cut the breaker to your oven, you’ll need to throw it back on.

Before we begin, there are three quick-checks that ensure you have power getting to your board properly:

1) If the control board makes any kind of beep, then you know your power supply is good.

2) If the display is in anyway illuminated, then your power supply is good.

3) For the third quick-check, stick your voltmeter probes into slots 2 and 3 of the wiring harness that attaches to connector P16 (there should be two blue wires coming into these same slots; see second photo below).  Make sure your probes are making contact with metal – either uninsulated portion of the wire or connector pins inside the harness.  You should measure 24 V AC here.  If not, go on with the rest of the guide.

If your board passes any of the quick-checks but you are still experiencing any of the common problems or some kind of malfunction, then you should send it in to FixYourBoard.com for repair.

Without further ado, the full troubleshooting guide.  Power to the oven control board goes through three stages…

STAGE ONE – power into the board?

120 V AC wall power comes into the board through the P24 wiring connector at pins 1 and 3.  Pin 1 is denoted by the small triangular arrow printed on the actual circuit board.  The space for pin 2 is empty, so when I refer to “pin 3”, it’s actually the second physical pin to occur in this connector.  That can certainly be confusing!  L1 (black wire) comes into pin 3, and Neutral (white wire) comes into pin 1 (see photo below).  The incoming power wires attach to this connector by a wiring harness with a corresponding number of slots.

With a voltmeter, you should measure about 120 V AC by sticking one probe in slot 1 and the other probe in slot 3 (make sure the probes are making contact with the metal wire or pin, not just the insulation around the wire).   If so, scroll down to Stage Two.  If you don’t measure any voltage across these slots, you could have an open thermal fuse (see photo above), which is in series with the incoming black L1 wire.  Keep one probe in slot 1 (Neutral) and move the other to the side of the thermal fuse that is coming from the wall (not the side that goes into the board).  You should measure 120 V AC here.  If you do, then you need to replace the thermal fuse.  If you don’t, then you have an electrical wiring issue in your wall and should contact a professional electrician.

STAGE TWO – power to the transformer?

The circuitry in the control board reroutes power to an off-board transformer.  The power is sent to-and-fro the transformer at connector P16 (see photo below).  First, let’s make sure that 120 V is going to the transformer.  L1 comes out at pin 5 and Neutral comes out at pin 7 (both should be red wires).  Hold your probes in these slots and you should measure 120 V AC across them.  If not, then you definitely have a board problem and should send it in to FixYourBoard.com for repair.

If 120 V AC is coming out of the board, then let’s make sure it’s getting to the transformer.  The wires from the transformer (both wires should be blue) connect at pins 2 and 3 on the P16 connector.  *CUT THE BREAKER TO YOUR OVEN* Some model ovens have the transformer more easily located for removal than others, but we need to be safe before going fishing through all these wires for it.  You should be able to find it by following the blue and red wires coming from the P16 connector.  You may need to pull your oven out from the wall.  Once you have a hold of it, place the transformer somewhere where you can probe it while still being connected to the board, but it’s not being shorted to any other metal or wires.

Being positive that the transformer and wiring is all electrically safe (not shorting to anything), throw the breaker back on.  Hold your voltmeter probes to the two small tabs where the red L1 and neutral wires attach (see photo below) – you should measure about 120 V AC.  It’d be unlikely, but if you don’t measure 120 V AC here and you were getting it out of the board at P16 pins 5 and 7, then the wires or their connections are somehow damaged and need to be replaced or re-soldered.  That kind of damage should be visually apparent.

STAGE 3 – stepped-down power back to the board?

The transformer’s job is to reduce (step-down) the high voltage a lower amount that”s easier and safer for the electronics.  Hold your probes to the two larger tabs on the transformer where the blue wires attach (see photo above).  You should measure 24 V AC here.  If not, then you have a bad transformer.  These are still available and relatively inexpensive.  You can do a Google search of your model number or use a website like RepairClinic.com to find the transformer you need.

If you do measure 24 V AC at the tabs, then ensure it’s getting to the board.  Power from the transformer travels through the blue wires back into the board at connector P16 pins 2 and 3.  Stick your probes in the corresponding slots (where the blue wires come in) on the wiring harness that connects to P16 – you should measure 24 V AC. If you do measure 24 V AC coming out at the transformer, but not back into the board at the P16 connector pins 2 and 3, then it’s again some kind of wiring/connection problem that should be visually apparent.

Reminders:

– In making any measurements with your probes, you need to be sure that you are touching conductive material, like exposed portions of the wires or pins.

– Throughout the course of troubleshooting, you’ve had to throw the breaker a couple times.  It needs to be ON (supplying electricity to the oven) when you check voltages on the board/transformer.

– All measured voltages will be approximate to the nominal values listed throughout the guide.

DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE! Enough said.

That concludes the power supply troubleshooting guide.  I hope you found it helpful!

Cheers,

Young Padawan

 

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Part Numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966