Failed Control Panel causing F1 or F7 on GE JKP27, JTP27, BJTP2 Built-In Ovens

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your General Electric JKP27, JTP27, BJTP27  built in oven? Don’t worry, there are options to restore critical oven functions. For $299 you can have all the functionality restored with a wireless tablet. This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars. A simple keypad replacement can turn into a headache due to an ‘no longer available’ (NLA) or obsolete touchpad. Most parts for GE ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this. This control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time. Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 and F7 codes.  Simple, use a wireless tablet:


This applies ( but not limited to) the following model numbers:


Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”


WB36T10130 – $299 on Amazon

WB36T10131 – $299 on Amazon

WB36T10025 – $299 on Amazon

WB36T10026 – $299 on Amazon

WB36T10466 – $299 on Amazon

WB36K5611 – $299 on Amazon

WB36K5612 – $299 on Amazon

Don’t see your partnumber listed?  No problem, we can custom make any touchpad solution for any oven.  Contact to get more information.

Failed Dacor Touchpad Causing F1 or F7? CPD,CPS Built-In Ovens

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your Dacor built in oven? Don’t worry, there are options!  For a fraction of an oven replacement you can have the functionality restored to your oven and avoid multiple thousands of dollars to replace a built-in oven. A simple keypad problem can turn into a headache due to a ‘no longer available’ (NLA) or obsolete touchpad. Most parts for Dacor ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this. This control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time. Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 and F7 codes.

***** Update – New Recommended Solution  *****
We now recommend a wireless tablet solution.  You can get it from Applianceboards by emailing  Buy directly from, or from this Amazon link.


Recommended solution for Obsolete Dacor Panels

Here is what our customers are saying:
“Success! Working great, looks great and on top of that saved us thousands compared to a new Dacor. Thank You” – Clayton – Dallas, Texas

“Our Dacor is working great again. See attached picture of our dinner” – Frank – Dallas, Texas
(FYI, it was chicken and it looked tasty!)

“Yeah! Arrived, installed and up to temperature! Thank you. Great instructions – easy install” – John – Downers Grove, Illinois

“We received the keypad and installed it. It works great! Thank you do much! It sure beats buying a new double oven!” – Brad – Bethel, Ohio


Dacor Models that are applicable include CPS227 CPS227A CPS227B CPS227W CPD227 CPS230 CPS230B CPD230 CPS127 CPS127A CPS127S CPS127W CPS130 CPS130A CPS130B CPS130R CPS130S CPS130W CPS230W CPS230S CPS230A and others.

Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”. Select you part to go the Amazon product page

13159A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13159B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13159W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13160B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13292A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158W – Less than $300on Amazon
13290A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290R – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291A – Less than $300 on Amazon
76480B – Less than $300 on Amazon

Don’t see your Dacor part number or model number or have questions? Contact

Electric Double Wall/Built-in Whirlpool Oven Dead? Could be open thermal fuse

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven


Does your oven display look like this?  Is the oven completely dead, whether or not you’ve already had the control board rebuilt by a PCB repair company?  This is probably just the result of an open fuse in-line with the black “hot” wire to the control board transformer.


Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity through the fuse.  If open, it needs to be replaced.   If the fuse is OK, but the board is totally dead, check that there is 120VAC across the “hot” wire with fuse and white neutral wire in the caddy-corner wiring harness.  If you’re getting 120VAC there but the board is still completely dead, consult a PCB repair company to get the board repaired.



4448876, 4452242


GBD277PDB0, GBD307PDQ0, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PD02, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDD4, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ4, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB4, RBD305, RBD305PD04, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ3, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ1, RBD307PDB4, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4, GBD277PDB1, GBD307PD, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDS1, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ6, RBD245PR, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ6, RBD275PDQ8, RBD276PDB6, RBD276PDD6, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDBG, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB06, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ6, RBD386PDQ6, RBD275PDB6, GBD277PDB1, RBD275PDQ6, RBD306PDB6, RBD245PDB6, GBD307PDS1, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ6, GBD277PDQ1, RBD276PDB6, GBD307PDB1, RBD245PDQ6, RBD276PDQ6, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDT1, GDB277PDB1, GDB277PDQ1, RBD305PDQ6, RBD305PDB6, RBD275PDQ2, , RBD275PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD306PDB1, , RBD245PDB1, RBD275PDB1, , RBD275PDQ1, , RBD275PDQ4, RBD305PDQ4, GBD307PDB0, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PDB2, , RBD275PDQ3, RBD277PDQ2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ3, RBD245PDB3, RBD276PDQ2, RBD276PDQ4, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ4, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDQ0, GBD307PDQ0, PBK1227, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD275PDB3, RBD276PDB1, RBD276PDB2, RBD276PDB4, RBD276PDQ1, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB3, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBD306PDZ4, RBD307PDB1, RBD307PDB2, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4


Obsolete Touchpad from Built-In GE oven? Models JKP13, JKP14, JKP26, JGBP79 Series.

Don’t worry for $299, these keypads can be revived.  If you can’t buy your keypad or it is prohibitively expensive, this option is for you.  Email for if you have any questions.

  •  Fixes common F1, F7 and unresponsive ovens.
  •  Proven solution for no longer available touchpads, buttonpads and keypads.
  •  All oven functions restored to your oven.

Some part numbers that are candidates for this operation are:
WB36K5062, WB36K5112, WB36K5065, WB36K5120, WB41K1, WB41K2, WB41K3, WB36K5523 and others.

These keypads are used in the following models:

Also, this process can be done to many other brands and models.   Can’t find your keypad?  Don’t worry, email us at

Ready to get your oven working again?  Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”

WB36K5062 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5112 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5065 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5120 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K1 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K2 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K3 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5523 – $299 on Amazon


F1, F2, F3 Errors With Whirlpool Series 8RBS2 GBS27 GBS30 RBS24 RBS27 RBS30 RS610 Built-In Ovens

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

This write-up is brought to you by A PCB REPAIR COMPANY.

Does this board look familiar?  The different part number variations are:  4453701, 4452892, 8301345, 8301465, 4453193, 4452900, 8186024, 8303885, W10340935, 8301919

Common Rebuild Part 4452892 and 4452900 Part

Common Rebuild Part 4452892 and 4452900 Part

This board type if often sent in to PCB repair companies.  Even more often, we get a question regarding error codes and how to determine if the controller is at fault. Well, every case is a little different, but these are the 4 most common error types that we see.  3 out of the 4 usually mean the controller is the culprit.    The common models that this applies to are 8RBS2 GBS27 GBS30 RBS24 RBS27 RBS30 RS610:  The most common are:

F1 / E1, E2, E3,E4, E5  – Control Board needs to be rebuilt/replaced

F3/ E0, F3/E2  – These are temperature sense problems.  Usually this means the board has a problem, but check you temperature sensor at room temperature.  If it is about 1080 ohms, the temperature sensor is good and the problem lies with the control board.  Send it in.

F5/E1  -Door latch will not lock.  This means the controller tried to lock the door during a self test, but it stayed un-locked.  Check the door lock motor and switches, but usually, this is the control board with the problem.

F2/E1 – “Keypad keytail not connected” –  Check the connection from the plastic keypad panel to the control board.  If it is snug, the problem is with the plastic touchpad, not the control board.


This board set is commonly seen in the following model numbers : GBS277PDB5, GBS277PDB6, GBS277PDB7, GBS277PDB8, GBS277PDQ5, GBS277PDQ6, GBS277PDQ7, GBS277PDQ8, GBS277PDS5, GBS277PDS6, 8RBS245PDQ1, GBS277PDB3, GBS277PDB4, GBS277PDQ3, GBS277PDQ4, GBS277PDS3, GBS277PDS4, GBS277PDT3, GBS307PDB3, GBS307PDB4, RBS275PDB13, RBS275PDQ13, RBS275PDT13, RS610PXGV7, RS610PXGW7, GBS277PRB01, GBS277PRQ01, GBS277PRS01, GBS277PRS02, GBS307PRB01, GBS307PRB03, GBS307PRQ01, GBS307PRQ03, GBS307PRS01, GBS307PRS02, RBS245PRB06, RBS245PRS, RBS245PRS04, RBS245PRS06, RBS245PRT, RBS275PVQ, RBS305PVS00, RBS307PVQ00, GBS277PDB11, GBS277PDB12, GBS277PDQ11, GBS277PDQ12, GBS277PDS11, GBS277PDS12, GBS277PDT11, GBS277PDT12, GBS307PDB11, GBS307PDB12

Amana Fridge – Defrost Problems – BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Series

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

This write-up is brought to you by A PCB REPAIR COMPANY.

This Amana defrost controller is often sent in for repair.  Even more often, we get a question regarding defrost issues and how to determine if the controller is at fault.  Luckily, Amana has a test feature built in to all of the following models.  It is called “Force Defrost”.  Basically, if you open and close the door 4 times within 8 seconds the electronic controller will go into forced defrost so you can check the functionality.  Read on to get more deltails…

If you have an Amana/Maytag refrigerator series BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI or SRD, you may be experiencing some of the following problems due to a worn out adaptive defrost controller.

  • Freezing/Icing Build-Up
  • Not Maintaining Cold Temperature
  • Warm Freezer
  • Compressor not Running

These models have a defrost controller that looks like this:


Electronic Defrost Control – 12050501, 12050504, 12050505, 12050506

Part numbers 12050501, 12050504, 12050505 and  12050506 have a simple troubleshooting technique to test defrost and compressor control.  This is from the Maytag documentation:

Forced Defrost

  • To force a defrost cycle, open and close either the freezer or refrigerator door light sw itch 4 times in a 8 second period. Allow atleast 1/2 second betw een each sw itch condition.



  1.  The compressor must be operating w hen forcing defrost.
  2. The evaporator fan motor is fan delayed through the defrost thermostat and w ill not function after a defrost cycle until the defrost thermostat closes.
  3. To bypass the 6 minute dw ell time after a defrost or to terminate a forced defrost, disconnect pow er to the refrigerator for 30 seconds.

Input Voltage Readings and Checks

L1 to L2 – line voltage should be present w henever the refrigerator is powered.
K to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith cold control contacts closed.
T to L2 – line voltage should be present w hen cold control contacts are closed, defrost terminator is closed,
and adaptive defrost control is in defrost mode.
R to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith refrigerator door open (door light sw itch closed).
F to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith freezer door open (door light sw itch closed).
Outputs Voltage Readings and Checks
C to L2 – line voltage present w hen in refrigeration mode w ith cold control contacts closed.


Wiring diagram for BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Models

Wiring diagram for BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Models



The complete list of models that have this type of deftrost control is:


Dim Display on Whirlpool Built-in Oven? Check for Corroded Wire Nuts. RBD YGBD Series

Another troubleshooting tip from a PCB repair company.


A very nice lady from Houston sent us the oven controller from her Whirlpool RBD275 built-in double oven. We rebuilt and returned … then got it back a while later with a note saying the display is very dim. We powered it up on our test bench and the display looks great. After discussions w/nice lady the syptoms were: I can read the blue clock ok (but not great), I can’t read the temp display after a few seconds of starting bake.


So, long story short … wire nut connections on the main power feed to her oven are corroded … a few seconds after you push “start” the bake relay kicks in and draws high current causing the control board voltage to droop.

On the bench we hooked up a Variac (variable transformer) to test at proper and then compare to drooped voltage. You can see in the pictures that at full voltage display looks great (lower)  but with the line voltage dropped to 91V (upper) you can still read clock but the orange digits are almost gone. It’s a characteristic of the display technology (vacuum flourescent display – VFD).


It’s a good quick visual to see failing breakers and oxidized wire nuts (at least once they’re degraded enough to add about 0.5 ohms of resistance to power feed).

Simulated affect of voltage drop across faulty wire-nuts

Simulated effect of voltage drop across faulty wire-nuts

Part numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966.

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Note, The text for this article was taken directly from a recent post on

Temperature Control Problems and F2,F3,F1 error codes with Whirlpool Series RB160 RB170 RS675 Built-In Ovens

If your oven has a controller that looks like this and has erratic temperature control issues, it is very likely a problem with the controller.  At we commonly get questions regarding these controllers.

The electronic controllers can be referred to as any of the following: 3169255, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258,  3169259,  3182391, 3182392, 3184943


When the  temperature is erratic and the oven frequently has trouble reaching temperature, even an experienced tech may have difficulty troubleshooting.  It is difficult to nail down because once the temperature control circuit begins to fail, you will see heating elements not coming on or staying on too long at random times.  This can also lead to F1,F2 or F3 errors.  The good news is that any of these controllers can be rebuild quickly and reliably with a  success rate that is over 95%.

List of Whirlpool model numbers:

WPLRM770PXAB0, RB160PXBB0, RB160PXBB1, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXBQ0, RB160PXYB0, RB160PXYB2, RB160PXYB3,  RB160PXYB4,  RB160PXYQ0,  RB160PXYQ2,  RB160PXYQ3,  RB160PXYQ4, RB160PXYQ6,  RB170AM,  RB170PXBB, RS6755xyn, RB760PXB, RB270PXYB, RB260PXYB, RB260PXBB2,  RB270PXYB, RB260PXBQ2, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RS696PXBB2,  RM765PXAB0, RM770PXBB2, RF396PXYN, RFB260PXBQ2, RF385PXYQ1,


Dead GE double oven? Transformer or Controller? Troubleshooting Guide

This guide will help you identify what problems you may have in the power supply to the electronics in your GE double oven.  Some symptoms you may be experiencing include, but are not limited to:
  • Blank display or no beeping
  • F1 error code
  • Oven seems dead

Generally, these are signs of a failed controller, but sometimes blank display or dead oven are simply the result of a failed transformer.  I say “simply” because it is much less expensive and much easier to replace/fix the transformer than it is the controller.  The objective of this post is to help you figure out which is the faulty part so you can send the right one to to be repaired.

You’ll need an AC voltmeter as well as a basic tool set handy (pretty much just the right sized screwdriver).

The first thing to do is cut the breaker to your oven before you start taking it apart – we don’t want anybody getting killed by high voltage.

Next, you’ll need to expose your controller.  Refer to this post for help if you don’t know how to access the control unit.  There is no need to disconnect anything – that could actually make your measurements useless.  Once it’s exposed, make sure you can comfortably touch the various wiring harnesses with the voltmeter probes.  If it’s going to be a struggle, you may want to demount the unit from the panel to get some more slack.

Now, turn the breaker back on.  You’ll need to be very careful from here on.  Even though the controller is mostly a low voltage device, there are still points of high voltage on the relay board, and you can still cause electrical damage if you probe the wrong places.  Wall power goes into a transformer somewhere off the control module, and the transformer steps the wall power down to low voltage and routes that to the control board.  The low voltage comes into the board at the white wiring connector labeled J1.  It’s near the black connector receiving the clear, thin ribbon cable from the keypad (see photo).

The transformer sends two separate low voltages to the control board, 21.5 VAC and 4.6 VAC.  These voltages are approximate: as long is you’re in the ballpark, you should be good.  Also, it’s important to note that there are many variations of this control module.  Yours may look a bit different from the one depicted below, but you should still be getting the same supply from the transformer.  The photo shows a unit with all the wiring detached – yours should have a wiring harness occupying the J1 connector, but you should be able to stick the voltmeter probes along the wires into the sockets of the harness to take measurements.  If not, cut the breaker, disconnect the harness from J1 connector, turn the breaker back on, and probe the bottom side of the harness.  You should measure voltages according the photo.  Note that the empty slot is referred to as pins 3.

GE double oven electronic control board

Probes on pins 1 and 2 is one measurement. Probes on pins 4 and 5 is a separate measurement. The empty slot is referred to as Pin 3.

If you measure the proper voltages, then you know the transformer is not the issue.  Make sure the wiring harness is well connected, clean, and making good contact.  If you’re still having problems as described at the beginning, then the controller is the problem, and you should send it to for repair.

If you aren’t reading these voltages, then you either have a bad transformer, or bad wiring.  Cut the breaker, and follow the wires back to the transformer.  These four wires come out of the secondary side of the transformer.  There should be another two wires going into the other side of the transformer, the primary side.  With the breaker on, you should measure 120VAC going into the primary.  I shouldn’t need to tell you how DANGEROUS 120VAC is.  If you measure 120VAC at the primary, check to see if you get 21.5 and 4.6 right at the secondary.  If not for either one, then the transformer is definitely bad and you should contact for repair.  If you have these voltages right at the transformer, but not at the board, then the wiring has broken down somewhere between and needs to be fixed.  If you’re not getting 120VAC into the transformer primary, then you have a serious electrical wiring problem in your wall which should be addressed by a professional (e.g. electrician).

I hope you found this guide helpful! Remember you can always email with questions.

-Young Padawan

Jenn-Air ACB, JEW, JJW, MEW, SCE, SVD, and WW Series Built-In Ovens can’t keep time and can’t be calibrated? Solution is here.

We’ve seen a number of Jenn-Air ovens (relevant model/part numbers and photos of typical boards below) here at with the same recurring problem…

The oven control seems unable to consistently keep the time (e.g. the display is often encountered flashing “12:00”), and the user calibration for the oven temperature is not saved after being set.

To set temperature calibration follow these steps:

  • Press “Bake” (upper bake will calibrate the upper oven, and lower bake will calibrate the lower oven)
  • Enter in “500” degrees
  • Hold down “Bake” again (the same bake as pressed at the start)
  • This should enter the calibration menu.  A number ranging from -35 to +35 (by increments of 5) should be displayed.  The default is “0”.
  • Press “Broil” to toggle between positive and negative ranges and then key in the desired offset (can only be from -35 to +35 by increments of 5).
  • Ex) a +20 degree offset will cause the oven controller to display “330” for an oven cavity that is actually 350 degrees.  Similarly, a -25 degree offset will cause the controller to display “425” for a cavity that is actually 400 degrees.
  • Press “Clear/Cancel” or just idle for a few seconds and the offset will be stored and the display will return to showing the clock.  So if you were to re-enter the calibration menu, it should show whatever number you just keyed in.

The control failure being addressed in this post is when you re-enter the calibration menu and it reads “0” or is blank instead of being stored at the desired offset.

Well we’ve discovered what’s causing this problem and know how to fix it.  Furthermore, we will refurbish the entire board, quickly and reliably, replacing all the components prone to failure and back it up with a two year warranty.  And the best part is that this repair is a fraction of the cost of buying a new controller, or worse yet, a new oven.  So send your malfunctioning controller in to and we’ll get it back up and running like new in no time!

Relevant Jenn-Air model numbers:


SCE30600B SCE30600BC SCE30600W SCE4320B SCE4320W SCE4340B SCE4340BC SCE70600B SCE70600W SCE30500W

SVD48600B SVD48600PF SVD48600PG SVD48600PK SVD48600PR SVD48600PT




WW30430W WW27430B WW27430BC WW27430P WW27430PF WW27430PG WW27430PK WW27430PR WW27430PU WW27430W WW27430WC WW30430B WW30430P WW30430PC WW30430PF WW30430PG WW30430PK WW30430PR WW30430PU

Relevant Jenn-Air part numbers:

12001691 12001693 12001914 71001799 71001872 71001977 71002594 71003401 71003424 74006612 74006613 74006614


Single oven display - front


Single oven diplsay - rear

Double oven display - front

Double oven display - rear

Single/upper oven relay board

Lower oven relay board