Amana/Kenmore/Maytag/Sears Refrigerator Control Board Repair

PCB repair companies are now repairing the control board this popular style of refrigerator!  It is branded under Amana, Maytag, Kenmore, and Sears.

The cost is $220.00 and that includes a two-year warranty and return shipping!  Standard turn time is 3-4 days once the board hits out lab, but we can turn it in one day for an additional $50.00.

Standard symptoms as the result of control board failure include:

  • intermittent display
  • intermittent compressor
  • intermittent evaporator fan
  • improper cooling
  • general power failures

Below are lists of relevant model and part numbers.  Visit our this company’s shipping page to get started!

MODEL NUMBERS:

AFI2538AEB, AFI2538AEB00, AFI2538AEQ, AFI2538AEQ00, AFI2538AES, AFI2538AES00, AFI2538AEW, AFI2538AEW00,  MFI2067AEB, MFI2067AEQ, MFI2067AES, MFI2067AEW, MFI2568AEB, MFI2568AEQ, MFI2568AES, MFI2568AEW

PART NUMBERS:

1206507, 12920708, 12920710, 59677532600, 59677533600, 59677539600, 67006389, 67006430, 67006747, AH2008821, AP4014490, EA2008821, PS2008821,W10178102

Amana Fridge – Defrost Problems – BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Series

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

This write-up is brought to you by A PCB REPAIR COMPANY.

This Amana defrost controller is often sent in for repair.  Even more often, we get a question regarding defrost issues and how to determine if the controller is at fault.  Luckily, Amana has a test feature built in to all of the following models.  It is called “Force Defrost”.  Basically, if you open and close the door 4 times within 8 seconds the electronic controller will go into forced defrost so you can check the functionality.  Read on to get more deltails…

If you have an Amana/Maytag refrigerator series BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI or SRD, you may be experiencing some of the following problems due to a worn out adaptive defrost controller.

  • Freezing/Icing Build-Up
  • Not Maintaining Cold Temperature
  • Warm Freezer
  • Compressor not Running

These models have a defrost controller that looks like this:

amana_defrost

Electronic Defrost Control – 12050501, 12050504, 12050505, 12050506

Part numbers 12050501, 12050504, 12050505 and  12050506 have a simple troubleshooting technique to test defrost and compressor control.  This is from the Maytag documentation:

Forced Defrost

  • To force a defrost cycle, open and close either the freezer or refrigerator door light sw itch 4 times in a 8 second period. Allow atleast 1/2 second betw een each sw itch condition.

 

Important

  1.  The compressor must be operating w hen forcing defrost.
  2. The evaporator fan motor is fan delayed through the defrost thermostat and w ill not function after a defrost cycle until the defrost thermostat closes.
  3. To bypass the 6 minute dw ell time after a defrost or to terminate a forced defrost, disconnect pow er to the refrigerator for 30 seconds.

Input Voltage Readings and Checks

L1 to L2 – line voltage should be present w henever the refrigerator is powered.
K to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith cold control contacts closed.
T to L2 – line voltage should be present w hen cold control contacts are closed, defrost terminator is closed,
and adaptive defrost control is in defrost mode.
R to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith refrigerator door open (door light sw itch closed).
F to L2 – line voltage should be present w ith freezer door open (door light sw itch closed).
Outputs Voltage Readings and Checks
C to L2 – line voltage present w hen in refrigeration mode w ith cold control contacts closed.

 

Wiring diagram for BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Models

Wiring diagram for BBI BC2 BRF SBD SBI SRD Models

 

 

The complete list of models that have this type of deftrost control is:

BBI20TPE, BBI20TPW, BBI20TW, BC20B, BC20BA, BC20BC, BC20BG, BRF520TE, BRF520TW, BRF725GL9, SBD20TPE, SBD20TPL, SBD20TPSW, SBD20TPW, SBI20S2E, SBI20TPE, SBI20TPL, SBI20TPSW, SBI20TPW, SRD22S3E

Before replacing WR55X10942 – A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

[ This article was originally posted at http://fixyourboard.com/techzone/refrigerators/ge_fridge_testload/ge_fridge_testload.html where you will find other articles of interest ]

At www.fixyourboard.com we repair a lot of GE fridge control boards with various component failures but there is one failure mode that we see often. This turns out to be responsible for a variety of seemingly random intermittent fridge problems that tend to be very hard to diagnose. Well, we came up with a very simple tool and procedure to isolate this problem on-site. It only requires one measurement with a DVM, nothing needs to be disconnected from the controller, only the control board cover panel need be removed.

Here I will describe the problem, how to construct this simple tool for about $3 and 10 minutes of your time, and how to make the measurement. This applies to the wide range of control board part numbers that look similar to this: Typical GE Motherboard

First: The Problem and The Test Strategy

The motherboard contains a 13.5 Vdc power supply that powers the relays, fans, dampers, etc as well as power to the temperature control board and dispenser board. There is a frequently occuring component failure that causes this power supply to still work fine under light loads, but lose its regulation ability under heavier loads. So suddenly, depending on the state of the fridge and what devices the motherboard is trying to energize, things go from working fine to … not so good … or major failure.

The test strategy is to make a voltage measurement on the connector (J4, pins 2-3) that supplies 13.5 Vdc to the other boards, AND TO DO SO UNDER FULL LOAD.

Next: The Test Load Device

Measure the voltage with a 25 ohm/10W shunt load to ferret out the problem (keep reading to see how to make the shunt load). A good board will see less than a few tenths Volt droop on this supply under load. A defective board will see a large drop in voltage (several Volts) when applying the load.

To be clear: If you see a supply voltage less than about 13.3 Volts under this condition then the motherboard has a problem. If the supply holds up under load, then the supply is good, but there could still be other problems with the motherboard. In a future blog I will deal with this. This is a quick NO-GO test.

If you think the supply may be bad but it’s not obvious, then also do a no-load measurement to check the difference. There should less than a few hundred millivolts difference between no-load and full load.

How to Contruct the Test Load

Here we build a 25 ohm, 10 Watt shunt load that plugs into the standard 3/4 inch spaced banana jacks on most DVMs. (OK, not all DVMs use this standard jack spacing, in which case you can add some short banana patch cords, or get a better meter). Following is a sequence of images showing how to construct the load, along with part numbers from www.mouser.com.

Last: Where to Measure

Backprobe connector J4 as shown below (the 2nd and 3rd pins from the edge). This is the 13.5 Vdc power supply to the other boards.

Summary

  • Backprobe the 13.5 Vdc supply on the connector J4, between pins 2 and 3 without the test load
  • Record the actual voltage (usually around 13.5 to 13.6 V)
  • Plug in the test shunt load between your meter and probes
  • Backprobe the same points and record the voltage under load
  • If you see more than a few tenths of a volt drop under load, then the motherboard has a problem
  • We can repair the control board for you at http://www.fixyourboard.com

KitchenAide KUIO15NNLS Ice Maker – Not Making Ice

KitchenAid KUIO15NNLS is Warm and not Making Ice

This page will explain how to troubleshoot a whirlpool ice machine and allow you to determine if your KitchenAid ice maker is hot due to the control board (wp # 8173919) or something else.  Control board 8173919 can be rebuilt at a fraction the cost of buying new.  A good place to have your control boards rebuilt is www.FixYourBoard.com.

I will try to isolate the problem to a section of the machine that will need to be serviced.  As always, when working with any home appliance, make sure that the power is removed before starting these procedures.  These steps assume that the inside of the ice maker is above 43 degrees.

To get to the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board, remove the following front cover.

After, the cover has been removed, you should see the following:

Now, remove the electronic control board covers.  You should have a view of the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board.  The control board looks like the following:

With the view of all the components mentioned above, plug in the ice machine.  Because the unit is above 43 degrees, the freeze cycle should start within 2 minutes of power up.

Step 1 To verify that the ice maker is in freeze mode:

2 minutes after power up, make the following observations:

– Condenser fan should be spinning

– compressor should be on.  Compressor should be vibrating, and the condenser coils should be warm to the touch after the compressor has been running for a couple of minutes.

– The water pump that circulates water over the evaporator coils should be running.

Step 2 – Condenser fan and pump were on, but condenser coil is not getting hot:

In this case, there is probably something wrong other than the control board.  To completely eliminate the control board, unplug the ice-maker and then disconnect the pink wire from the control board.  This controls the hot gas solenoid which controls whether the ice make is heating or cooling.  By disconnecting the pink wire, once the freezer is re-plugged, the hot gas solenoid will be de-energized and the system should be in a normal refrigerator like cooling mode.

Now, re-plug the ice-maker and observe the same things from step one.  Does the condenser coil start to warm up?  If not, the problem is with compressor, PTC relay, overload switch, hot gas solenoid/valve, bin thermostat or low freon.  If you are absolutely sure the compressor is on, the list of suspect things drops to compressor, hot gas solenoid/valve or low freon in the system.

Step 3 – Condenser fan on, water pump is on, condenser coils are hot:

At this step you are sure that the machine is in freeze mode by either removing the pink wire which drives the hot gas valve or measuring that the hot gas solenoid is de-energized.  This means that the evaporator coils should be getting very cold.   To check this, the top cover of the ice-machine must be removed.  There you will see the evaporator coils.  Here is an illustration:

Check that the evaporator coils are getting very cold and there is water flowing over them.  Ice should soon follow.

If there evaporator is hot or stays at room temperature, there is something wrong with the sealed system.  This could be low freon,  hot-gas valve,  other blockage in sealed system.

Step 4 – Everything Seems to be Working.  Condenser Coils are Getting Very Hot, Evaporator is Very Cold.  Is there Ice?

At this step, you have run your ice maker for about an hour and you are sure the evaporator coils are getting cold.  You also have seen that the water pump is functioning.  The next logical step is to see if there is ice where it is supposed to be.  Here are instructions for that.

Look behind the following ice chutes:

Behind these flaps you will see the ice chute, rear frame pipe and front frame pipe.  See below:

Now, look up on top of the ice chute.  You will see the bottom of the evaporator.  This is where the ice forms.  Can you see ice?