Amana/Kenmore/Maytag/Sears Refrigerator Control Board Repair

PCB repair companies are now repairing the control board this popular style of refrigerator!  It is branded under Amana, Maytag, Kenmore, and Sears.

The cost is $220.00 and that includes a two-year warranty and return shipping!  Standard turn time is 3-4 days once the board hits out lab, but we can turn it in one day for an additional $50.00.

Standard symptoms as the result of control board failure include:

  • intermittent display
  • intermittent compressor
  • intermittent evaporator fan
  • improper cooling
  • general power failures

Below are lists of relevant model and part numbers.  Visit our this company’s shipping page to get started!

MODEL NUMBERS:

AFI2538AEB, AFI2538AEB00, AFI2538AEQ, AFI2538AEQ00, AFI2538AES, AFI2538AES00, AFI2538AEW, AFI2538AEW00,  MFI2067AEB, MFI2067AEQ, MFI2067AES, MFI2067AEW, MFI2568AEB, MFI2568AEQ, MFI2568AES, MFI2568AEW

PART NUMBERS:

1206507, 12920708, 12920710, 59677532600, 59677533600, 59677539600, 67006389, 67006430, 67006747, AH2008821, AP4014490, EA2008821, PS2008821,W10178102

Unscramble Codes E1,E2,E3,E4,E5,E6,E7,E8,E9,E10,E11,E12,E13,E14,E15 For Thermador CT127, CT130, CT230 Models

The most common codes we see at www.fixyourboard.com are E3,E4, E10,  but here is the full list for CT127, CT130, CT230, CMT22 models:

Does your Thermador Controller look like this?  Below is the full list of codes and the meaning according to Thermador:

ERC_CT127_CT130_CT230

ERC For CT127_CT130_CT230

Error Code:     E1
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Disables clean in both ovens; allow cooking
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E2
Cause:     Sensor or Control Board
Example:     Oven temp over 625F or clean temp over 890F
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E3
Cause:     Open Sensor
Example:     Disables cooking in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E4
Cause:     Shorted sensor
Example:     Disables cooking in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E5
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Disables clean in both ovens; cooking useable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E6
Cause:     Selector Switch
Example:     Disables individual cook modes in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check all functions; replace selector switch if one-piece Dreefs; replace control board

Error Code:     E7
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E8
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E9
Cause:     Latch
Example:     Latch motor may run but switches do not cycle
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E10
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Checksum error
Corrective Action:     Replace Dreefs board

Error Code:     E11
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Will not clean
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E12
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Will not clean
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E13
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Latch does not run
Corrective Action:     Check for voltage to latch motor

Error Code:     E14
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Loose latch switch
Corrective Action:     Check latch for proper operation

Error Code:     E15
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace Dreefs board

The common parts and models that we see at www.fixyourboard.com are:

Parts: 368743, 369171, 431481, 35-00-536, 35-00-459

Models: CT127N01, CT127NPRS, CT130-03,  CT130S-03, CT227N01 CT23003, CT227NPRS, CT130S-03, CMT22NPRS

Before replacing WR55X10942 – A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

[ This article was originally posted at http://fixyourboard.com/techzone/refrigerators/ge_fridge_testload/ge_fridge_testload.html where you will find other articles of interest ]

At www.fixyourboard.com we repair a lot of GE fridge control boards with various component failures but there is one failure mode that we see often. This turns out to be responsible for a variety of seemingly random intermittent fridge problems that tend to be very hard to diagnose. Well, we came up with a very simple tool and procedure to isolate this problem on-site. It only requires one measurement with a DVM, nothing needs to be disconnected from the controller, only the control board cover panel need be removed.

Here I will describe the problem, how to construct this simple tool for about $3 and 10 minutes of your time, and how to make the measurement. This applies to the wide range of control board part numbers that look similar to this: Typical GE Motherboard

First: The Problem and The Test Strategy

The motherboard contains a 13.5 Vdc power supply that powers the relays, fans, dampers, etc as well as power to the temperature control board and dispenser board. There is a frequently occuring component failure that causes this power supply to still work fine under light loads, but lose its regulation ability under heavier loads. So suddenly, depending on the state of the fridge and what devices the motherboard is trying to energize, things go from working fine to … not so good … or major failure.

The test strategy is to make a voltage measurement on the connector (J4, pins 2-3) that supplies 13.5 Vdc to the other boards, AND TO DO SO UNDER FULL LOAD.

Next: The Test Load Device

Measure the voltage with a 25 ohm/10W shunt load to ferret out the problem (keep reading to see how to make the shunt load). A good board will see less than a few tenths Volt droop on this supply under load. A defective board will see a large drop in voltage (several Volts) when applying the load.

To be clear: If you see a supply voltage less than about 13.3 Volts under this condition then the motherboard has a problem. If the supply holds up under load, then the supply is good, but there could still be other problems with the motherboard. In a future blog I will deal with this. This is a quick NO-GO test.

If you think the supply may be bad but it’s not obvious, then also do a no-load measurement to check the difference. There should less than a few hundred millivolts difference between no-load and full load.

How to Contruct the Test Load

Here we build a 25 ohm, 10 Watt shunt load that plugs into the standard 3/4 inch spaced banana jacks on most DVMs. (OK, not all DVMs use this standard jack spacing, in which case you can add some short banana patch cords, or get a better meter). Following is a sequence of images showing how to construct the load, along with part numbers from www.mouser.com.

Last: Where to Measure

Backprobe connector J4 as shown below (the 2nd and 3rd pins from the edge). This is the 13.5 Vdc power supply to the other boards.

Summary

  • Backprobe the 13.5 Vdc supply on the connector J4, between pins 2 and 3 without the test load
  • Record the actual voltage (usually around 13.5 to 13.6 V)
  • Plug in the test shunt load between your meter and probes
  • Backprobe the same points and record the voltage under load
  • If you see more than a few tenths of a volt drop under load, then the motherboard has a problem
  • We can repair the control board for you at http://www.fixyourboard.com

Dacor CPO230WO and CP0130C Cooling Fan Problem and F1,F2,F3,F4 error codes

At www.FixYourBoard.com, we see controllers come in for Dacor model numbers CPO230W, CP0130C.  These models use the following control boards control that can be rebuild quickly and reliably – 82810, 82812, 82811, 82837, 82875, 82874.

The most common symptoms for these boards are F1,F2,F3,F4,F5,F6 error codes.  Sometimes they throw F6 codes.

For these models, when the cooling fan does not operate, it is not due to the control boards.   The following diagram illustrates this.  The red line annotates how the fan is turned on using the DLB relays to supply L1 to the fan through the thermal switch.  This means that if the oven is heating, the DLB is working and the problem must be with the thermal switch or cooling blower itself.  Note that when the cooling fan does not work, the oven can have a difficult time controlling temperature.  It is not uncommon for the oven to burn the top of the food while baking if the fan is not working properly.Dacor  Wiring Diagram for CP0230