Failed Dacor Touchpad Causing F1 or F7? CPD,CPS Built-In Ovens

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your Dacor built in oven? Don’t worry, there are options!  For a fraction of an oven replacement you can have the functionality restored to your oven and avoid multiple thousands of dollars to replace a built-in oven. A simple keypad problem can turn into a headache due to a ‘no longer available’ (NLA) or obsolete touchpad. Most parts for Dacor ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this. This control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time. Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 and F7 codes.

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Recommended solution for Obsolete Dacor Panels

Here is what our customers are saying:
“Success! Working great, looks great and on top of that saved us thousands compared to a new Dacor. Thank You” – Clayton – Dallas, Texas

“Our Dacor is working great again. See attached picture of our dinner” – Frank – Dallas, Texas
(FYI, it was chicken and it looked tasty!)

“Yeah! Arrived, installed and up to temperature! Thank you. Great instructions – easy install” – John – Downers Grove, Illinois

“We received the keypad and installed it. It works great! Thank you do much! It sure beats buying a new double oven!” – Brad – Bethel, Ohio

 

Dacor Models that are applicable include CPS227 CPS227A CPS227B CPS227W CPD227 CPS230 CPS230B CPD230 CPS127 CPS127A CPS127S CPS127W CPS130 CPS130A CPS130B CPS130R CPS130S CPS130W CPS230W CPS230S CPS230A and others.

Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”. Select you part to go the Amazon product page

13159A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13159B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13159W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13160B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13292A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13158W – Less than $300on Amazon
13290A – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290B – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290R – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13290W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291W – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291S – Less than $300 on Amazon
13291A – Less than $300 on Amazon
76480B – Less than $300 on Amazon

Don’t see your Dacor part number or model number or have questions? Contact info@applianceboards.com.

Meaning of F1,F2,F3,F4,F5,F6,F7 codes for Garland/Manitowoc Ovens

Garland oven controllers are programmed to give meaningful information if they enter into a fault condition.  This applies to most Garland ovens such as models: UCO-G-5, ECO-G-10, ECO-G-20, ICO-G-10, ICO-G-20, IC0-E-10 , ICO-E-20, ECO-E-10, ECO-E-20,MP-ES, MP-ED, MP-GS, MP-GD, PaceSetter EC-I-36, EC-II-36, EC-I-42, EC-II-42, GC-I-36,GC-II-36,GC-I-42,GC-II-42, Trendsetter ovens TE3, TE4, TTE3, TTE4, TE3/4-x, TTE3/4-X, TE3/4ECH, TTE3/4ECH, TG2A, TG3,TG4,TTG3,TTG4, Sunfire SDG-1 and SGD-2, TE2A, KFC MCO-G-5K and others.

Many times the result of the F code troubleshooting points to the control board /Timer/ERC.  Don’t worry, they can be rebuilt even if the part is no longer available (NLA) or obsolete.  With www.garland.fixyourboard.com , you will never have to scrap a commercial oven due to failed electronics.

Some part numbers that throw F-codes are: 1517700, 1517701, 1517702, 1517703,1544800, 1517704,1517705, 1517706, 1517710 ,1544801, 1933801, 1933701,4521705,4521282, 4515873, 1025299, 1025204,1034199, 1244705, 1285601, 1025204, 1244704, 1285700, 1905701, 1025204,1244705, 1905601 among others.

Here is a summary of the fault codes and their meaning:

F1Relay Output is Enabled When Not Cooking. The cook relay is closed with no call for heat.
-Control should be rebuilt.

F2 Over Temperature Alarm. The control is sensing an oven temperature 50 degrees or more above the
maximum temperature of 500F
.
-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance  and replace if faulty
-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F3Open Probe Circuit. The control is sensing an open circuit at the probe input.

-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance and replace if faulty.

-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F4Shorted Probe Circuit. The control is sensing a short circuit at the probe.
-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance and replace if faulty
-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F5Relay outputs not enabled when cooking. The control is in cook mode and the heat relay is not closing.
-The control should be rebuilt

F6No 60Hz input. The control does not sense the input power.
-Check the power supply for noise
-If the supply is correct, rebuild control.

F7 EEPROM. The control has detected that the calculated EEPROM check sum is incorrect.

-Reset power to control and if problem persists, rebuild control.

KitchenAide KUIO15NNLS Ice Maker – Not Making Ice

KitchenAid KUIO15NNLS is Warm and not Making Ice

This page will explain how to troubleshoot a whirlpool ice machine and allow you to determine if your KitchenAid ice maker is hot due to the control board (wp # 8173919) or something else.  Control board 8173919 can be rebuilt at a fraction the cost of buying new.  A good place to have your control boards rebuilt is www.FixYourBoard.com.

I will try to isolate the problem to a section of the machine that will need to be serviced.  As always, when working with any home appliance, make sure that the power is removed before starting these procedures.  These steps assume that the inside of the ice maker is above 43 degrees.

To get to the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board, remove the following front cover.

After, the cover has been removed, you should see the following:

Now, remove the electronic control board covers.  You should have a view of the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board.  The control board looks like the following:

With the view of all the components mentioned above, plug in the ice machine.  Because the unit is above 43 degrees, the freeze cycle should start within 2 minutes of power up.

Step 1 To verify that the ice maker is in freeze mode:

2 minutes after power up, make the following observations:

– Condenser fan should be spinning

– compressor should be on.  Compressor should be vibrating, and the condenser coils should be warm to the touch after the compressor has been running for a couple of minutes.

– The water pump that circulates water over the evaporator coils should be running.

Step 2 – Condenser fan and pump were on, but condenser coil is not getting hot:

In this case, there is probably something wrong other than the control board.  To completely eliminate the control board, unplug the ice-maker and then disconnect the pink wire from the control board.  This controls the hot gas solenoid which controls whether the ice make is heating or cooling.  By disconnecting the pink wire, once the freezer is re-plugged, the hot gas solenoid will be de-energized and the system should be in a normal refrigerator like cooling mode.

Now, re-plug the ice-maker and observe the same things from step one.  Does the condenser coil start to warm up?  If not, the problem is with compressor, PTC relay, overload switch, hot gas solenoid/valve, bin thermostat or low freon.  If you are absolutely sure the compressor is on, the list of suspect things drops to compressor, hot gas solenoid/valve or low freon in the system.

Step 3 – Condenser fan on, water pump is on, condenser coils are hot:

At this step you are sure that the machine is in freeze mode by either removing the pink wire which drives the hot gas valve or measuring that the hot gas solenoid is de-energized.  This means that the evaporator coils should be getting very cold.   To check this, the top cover of the ice-machine must be removed.  There you will see the evaporator coils.  Here is an illustration:

Check that the evaporator coils are getting very cold and there is water flowing over them.  Ice should soon follow.

If there evaporator is hot or stays at room temperature, there is something wrong with the sealed system.  This could be low freon,  hot-gas valve,  other blockage in sealed system.

Step 4 – Everything Seems to be Working.  Condenser Coils are Getting Very Hot, Evaporator is Very Cold.  Is there Ice?

At this step, you have run your ice maker for about an hour and you are sure the evaporator coils are getting cold.  You also have seen that the water pump is functioning.  The next logical step is to see if there is ice where it is supposed to be.  Here are instructions for that.

Look behind the following ice chutes:

Behind these flaps you will see the ice chute, rear frame pipe and front frame pipe.  See below:

Now, look up on top of the ice chute.  You will see the bottom of the evaporator.  This is where the ice forms.  Can you see ice?