Obsolete Touchpad from Built-In GE oven? Models JKP13, JKP14, JKP26, JGBP79 Series.

Don’t worry for $299, these keypads can be revived.  If you can’t buy your keypad or it is prohibitively expensive, this option is for you.  Email info@applianceboards.com for if you have any questions.

  •  Fixes common F1, F7 and unresponsive ovens.
  •  Proven solution for no longer available touchpads, buttonpads and keypads.
  •  All oven functions restored to your oven.

Some part numbers that are candidates for this operation are:
WB36K5062, WB36K5112, WB36K5065, WB36K5120, WB41K1, WB41K2, WB41K3, WB36K5523 and others.

These keypads are used in the following models:

Also, this process can be done to many other brands and models.   Can’t find your keypad?  Don’t worry, email us at info@applianceboards.com

Ready to get your oven working again?  Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”

WB36K5062 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5112 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5065 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5120 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K1 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K2 – $299 on Amazon
WB41K3 – $299 on Amazon
WB36K5523 – $299 on Amazon


Before replacing WR55X10942 – A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

A Very Quick and Simple Measurement that May Solve Your Intermittent GE Refrigerator Problem

[ This article was originally posted at http://fixyourboard.com/techzone/refrigerators/ge_fridge_testload/ge_fridge_testload.html where you will find other articles of interest ]

At www.fixyourboard.com we repair a lot of GE fridge control boards with various component failures but there is one failure mode that we see often. This turns out to be responsible for a variety of seemingly random intermittent fridge problems that tend to be very hard to diagnose. Well, we came up with a very simple tool and procedure to isolate this problem on-site. It only requires one measurement with a DVM, nothing needs to be disconnected from the controller, only the control board cover panel need be removed.

Here I will describe the problem, how to construct this simple tool for about $3 and 10 minutes of your time, and how to make the measurement. This applies to the wide range of control board part numbers that look similar to this: Typical GE Motherboard

First: The Problem and The Test Strategy

The motherboard contains a 13.5 Vdc power supply that powers the relays, fans, dampers, etc as well as power to the temperature control board and dispenser board. There is a frequently occuring component failure that causes this power supply to still work fine under light loads, but lose its regulation ability under heavier loads. So suddenly, depending on the state of the fridge and what devices the motherboard is trying to energize, things go from working fine to … not so good … or major failure.

The test strategy is to make a voltage measurement on the connector (J4, pins 2-3) that supplies 13.5 Vdc to the other boards, AND TO DO SO UNDER FULL LOAD.

Next: The Test Load Device

Measure the voltage with a 25 ohm/10W shunt load to ferret out the problem (keep reading to see how to make the shunt load). A good board will see less than a few tenths Volt droop on this supply under load. A defective board will see a large drop in voltage (several Volts) when applying the load.

To be clear: If you see a supply voltage less than about 13.3 Volts under this condition then the motherboard has a problem. If the supply holds up under load, then the supply is good, but there could still be other problems with the motherboard. In a future blog I will deal with this. This is a quick NO-GO test.

If you think the supply may be bad but it’s not obvious, then also do a no-load measurement to check the difference. There should less than a few hundred millivolts difference between no-load and full load.

How to Contruct the Test Load

Here we build a 25 ohm, 10 Watt shunt load that plugs into the standard 3/4 inch spaced banana jacks on most DVMs. (OK, not all DVMs use this standard jack spacing, in which case you can add some short banana patch cords, or get a better meter). Following is a sequence of images showing how to construct the load, along with part numbers from www.mouser.com.

Last: Where to Measure

Backprobe connector J4 as shown below (the 2nd and 3rd pins from the edge). This is the 13.5 Vdc power supply to the other boards.


  • Backprobe the 13.5 Vdc supply on the connector J4, between pins 2 and 3 without the test load
  • Record the actual voltage (usually around 13.5 to 13.6 V)
  • Plug in the test shunt load between your meter and probes
  • Backprobe the same points and record the voltage under load
  • If you see more than a few tenths of a volt drop under load, then the motherboard has a problem
  • We can repair the control board for you at http://www.fixyourboard.com

GE Double Built-in Oven – Install Problem After Rebuild. F2 Error and Oven Stays at 100 degrees

So you just got your GE control board refurbished from www.FixYourBoard.com and the controller appears to be doing strange things.  How can this be?  They have a 100% functional test for every outgoing board they rebuild.  Well, there is a good change that there may be an installation wiring problem.  This page describes a common hook up problem that fortunately is easy to correct and causes no permanent damage.  A partial list of model series that this applies to is: 3634842 9114842 JKP44GP JKP44GT JKP44GV JKP45WP JKP45WT JKP45WV JKP54GP JKP54GT JKP54GV JKP55WP JKP55WT JKP55WV JKP56AS JKP56AT JKP56AV ZEK754G ZEK755W ZEK756G ZEK757W.

The solution applies to most built in GE ovens, but the wire coloring may be different for some models.  Make sure you check your wiring diagram that is specific to your model number.

Symptom: F2 errors, oven display stays at 100 degrees, uneven cooking.

Description:  You turn on the upper oven and set the temperature.  The left orange numbers on the display light up and show the set temperature.  After about a minute the left temperature shows 100 degrees and stays there.  You check the upper oven, but it is not getting hot.  The lower oven starts to warm up.  If you set the lower oven, the exact opposite scenario exists.


When the upper oven is set, the control board turns on power to the elements and measures the temperature in the upper oven.  The problem is that if the orange wire is connected to DLB2 instead of DLB1  and the yellow is connected to BA2 instead of BA1, the lower oven will begin to heat instead of the upper oven.  In short, the wiring is wrong and needs to match the wiring diagram.  Here is an example that covers most built-in GE ovens:

Upper Bake(BA1) – Yellow                        Lower Bake(BA2) – Yellow/White

Upper Broil(BR1) – Violet                          Lower Broil(BR2) – Violet/White

Upper DLB(DLB1) – Orange                     Lower DLB(DLB2) – Orange/White

A complete list of models is: 3634842594, 9114842593, 9114842594, 9114842993, JKP44GP1, JKP44GP2BG, JKP44GP3BG, JKP44GP4BG, JKP44GT1BB, JKP44GT2BB, JKP44GV1BB, JKP45WP1, JKP45WP2WG, JKP45WP3WG, JKP45WT1WW, JKP45WT2WW, JKP45WV1WW, JKP54GP1BG, JKP54GP2BG, JKP54GP3BG, JKP54GP4BG, JKP54GT1BB, JKP54GT2BB, JKP54GV1BB, JKP55WP1WG, JKP55WP2WG, JKP55WP3WG, JKP55WT1WW, JKP55WT2WW, JKP55WV1WW, JKP56AS1AA, JKP56AT1AA, JKP56AT2AA, JKP56AV1AA, ZEK754GP1, ZEK754GP2BG, ZEK754GP3BG, ZEK754GP4BG, ZEK754GP5BG, ZEK754GP6BG, ZEK754GP7BG, ZEK755WP1, ZEK755WP2WG, ZEK755WP3WG, ZEK755WP4WG, ZEK755WP5WG, ZEK755WP6WG, ZEK756GP2BG, ZEK756GP3BG, ZEK756GP4BG, ZEK756GP5BG, ZEK756GP6BG, ZEK756GP7BG, ZEK757WP1WG, ZEK757WP2WG, ZEK757WP3WG, ZEK757WP4WG, ZEK757WP5WG, ZEK757WP6WG, and more

GE Refrigerator Icing Up?

At www.FixYourBoard.com this is a common question regarding refrigerators; does my control board need to be reconditioned?  How do I isolate the problem to the control board or other parts such as thermistors, defrost heater or defrost over temperature thermostat?  I will try to help here:

This applies to General Electric SxS (Side by Side), Arctica, Profile, Monogram, Bottom-Mount refrigerators.  Model series are ETS22, ESS22, ESS25, GSS20, GSS22, GSS25, GTS22, HTS22, HSS22, HSS25, PTS22, PTS25, STS22, SSS25 and more.  Below is a troubleshooting flow chart from GE documentation.

Make sure the fridge is unplugged before going through this troubleshooting exercise.   A deeper explanation follows the flowchart.

Step – Unplug refrigerator.  Unplug connector J9 from the main board.  Measure between blue wire and connector and orange (neutral) wire on main control board J7 pin 9.  Are there approximately 37 ohms?

Explanation: This step measures the defrost heater.  By unplugging it from the board, you are left with the defrost heater, bi-metal defrost switch and wiring to the control board.  If the resistance is much higher than 37 ohms.  It is the switch, defrost heater or wiring that needs to be replaced.

Step – Verify thermistors are within proper range using thermistor values chart.  Is the resistance within range.

Explanation: Using a D.V.M. (digital volt meter), the thermistors must have a resistance that corresponds to the correct temperature.  This can be a little tricky because you don’t know the actual temperature of the thermistor.  Your values don’t have to be exact, but they should be in the ball park of what you think the temperature is.  Here are three relevant values:

Room temperature (77 degrees F)  – 5,000 ohms

Freezing ( 32 degrees F)                – 16,300 ohms

Evaporator cold ( 23 degrees F)    – 21,000 ohms

Freezer Fan Not Working – GE Refrigerator

This page addresses a common freezer fan problem with GE fridges.  Modern GE fridges use a main electronic control board to control 12V  fans.  A list of models for which this posting applies is shown at the end of this posting.

There are basically 3 reasons that can cause a fan not to work correctly.

1.  Freezer door switch or wiring to the switch is stuck in a position that signals the control board that the freezer door is open.

2.  Fan or wiring to fan has the problem.  There could be a short or open in the fan or wiring to the fan.   Also, the fan could have an obstruction that keeps it from spinning.

3.  Control Board is damaged

Checking the door switches:

For safety, I recommend checking the door switches with the fridge unplugged!!

Backprobe the connectors to perform the following procedure.

With fridge unplugged and the freezer door open, check the resistance between L1 and freezer switch pin 7 on J2 connector.  The resistance should be very low ( less than 10 ohms).  Now, close the door and re-measure the resistance between L1 and freezer switch pin 7.  It should now be open circuit( very high resistance).   If this is working, your freezer door switch is functioning.

Repeat the procedure above for the fresh food door switch.   With the fresh food door open, the resistance between L1 and pin 6 should be less than 10 ohms.  With the fresh food door closed the measurement should be open circuit.

If these door switch tests pass, go to the next step.

Check the Evaporator Fan and Wiring:

Now that you have verified that the door switches are working correctly, the next step is to check if the freezer/evaporator fan is the problem.  We will introduce a trick to force power to the fan and verify whether the problem is in the fan or fan wiring.  Using a paper clip like the one shown below,  we will short pin 8 (12 Volts) and pin 4 (control power to fan)  together on connector J2.

The following shows a picture of the paper clip installed.  Make sure that the paper clip is far enough into the connector that the metal paper clip is making contact with the metal inside the connector.

Now, plug in the fridge.  The freezer fan should stay on continuously.  If the freezer fan is not spinning, make sure that paper clip is pushed in far enough to make connections to the metal inside the connector.  If the fan still doesn’t spin or is spinning at a slow speed, the fan or wiring should be replaced.

How to Remove an Oven Control Board

If you own an oven, chances are at some point you will need to access the electronics behind the control panel.  Doing it yourself can save you some money and is easy to do on most ovens.  Regardless of what you may hear, the control boards on all appliances are repairable.  Many times, control board repair is the only option because they are obsolete or no longer available from the manufacturer.  A good example of a repair service company is www.FixYourBoard.com.

This posting shows the basic steps for removing a control board from a built-in electric Whirlpool model .  A similar process applies to Kitchenaid, GE, Thermador, Dacor, Jennair and many others. This process is just as easy on most other oven brands and once you do it, you will be glad you tackled the job.  All you usually need is a screw driver and a refreshing drink.  This post covers the basic steps that one should follow.

1.  Turn Off Power to Oven

This is the single most important step.  This is for your safety and to protect the electronics of the oven.  Removing power ensures that no wires will be shorted to other metal parts.   This is done with the circuit breaker.  Find the right one and make sure it turns off all lights in the oven and control panel.

2.  Remove Mounting Hardware

Front View Screw Locations

Side view of screws holding control panel

This whirlpool has mounting screws for the support brackets on the sides of the oven door.  These can be removed by opening the door and removing the holding screws.

3.  Take Notes and Pictures

Now, the control panel should be loose and you can pull it out to see what is behind the control panel.  This is great time to take some notes and pictures.  This is quick to do and you will glad you did once it is time to re-install the control board.

Behind Front Touchpad

In most cases as in this one, you will see the control board attached to the front panel.  Again, before you remove the control board from the panel or disconnect any wires, it is recommended that you take some snapshots before going any further.

Once the connections are removed and the control board is free, all you have to do is wrap it with some cushioning and put it in a box.  Most control boards will be fixed, tested and returned to your door step within a week.