Unscramble Codes E1,E2,E3,E4,E5,E6,E7,E8,E9,E10,E11,E12,E13,E14,E15 For Thermador CT127, CT130, CT230 Models

The most common codes we see at www.fixyourboard.com are E3,E4, E10,  but here is the full list for CT127, CT130, CT230, CMT22 models:

Does your Thermador Controller look like this?  Below is the full list of codes and the meaning according to Thermador:

ERC_CT127_CT130_CT230

ERC For CT127_CT130_CT230

Error Code:     E1
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Disables clean in both ovens; allow cooking
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E2
Cause:     Sensor or Control Board
Example:     Oven temp over 625F or clean temp over 890F
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E3
Cause:     Open Sensor
Example:     Disables cooking in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E4
Cause:     Shorted sensor
Example:     Disables cooking in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check sensor

Error Code:     E5
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Disables clean in both ovens; cooking useable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E6
Cause:     Selector Switch
Example:     Disables individual cook modes in affected oven
Corrective Action:     Check all functions; replace selector switch if one-piece Dreefs; replace control board

Error Code:     E7
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E8
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace control board

Error Code:     E9
Cause:     Latch
Example:     Latch motor may run but switches do not cycle
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E10
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Checksum error
Corrective Action:     Replace Dreefs board

Error Code:     E11
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Will not clean
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E12
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Will not clean
Corrective Action:     Replace latch in affected oven

Error Code:     E13
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Latch does not run
Corrective Action:     Check for voltage to latch motor

Error Code:     E14
Cause:     Latch Problem
Example:     Loose latch switch
Corrective Action:     Check latch for proper operation

Error Code:     E15
Cause:     Control Board
Example:     Remains in display; oven unusable
Corrective Action:     Replace Dreefs board

The common parts and models that we see at www.fixyourboard.com are:

Parts: 368743, 369171, 431481, 35-00-536, 35-00-459

Models: CT127N01, CT127NPRS, CT130-03,  CT130S-03, CT227N01 CT23003, CT227NPRS, CT130S-03, CMT22NPRS

Whirlpool Double Oven (Gold, GBD, RBD series) not heating? Could be an open thermal fuse.

Hello!

Today’s article will help you figure out why the bake/broil elements in your oven(s) aren’t heating up, even though the control panel seems to be operating perfectly.  In fact, you may even have recently received a refurbished/repaired control unit from www.FixYourBoard.com, but the oven still won’t heat up.  Fear no longer – this blog will get you on the right track in no time.

This guide is for troubleshooting Whirlpool double ovens – please refer to the list of relevant part and model numbers at the bottom of this blog to ensure you are in the right place.

First off, does your control panel seem to be functional? If the display isn’t illuminated, and there are no beeps when you press buttons, but you’re positive you’ve properly hooked up the control board and have the breaker on, then you may have an issue with the power supply to the control board.  Please refer to this guide for troubleshooting the power supply.

So everything seems to be properly connected.   You set the oven to bake, the display shows that the heat is on (the door needs to be closed), but the oven elements aren’t heating up at all, and the control is not throwing any error codes.  This is almost certainly being cause by an open “oven shutdown thermal fuse”.  There is one of these fuses for both the lower oven and the upper oven, each.  Hopefully, you’re only having this problem in one of the two, but it wouldn’t be too surprising if both thermal fuses went out, and it’s not hard to replace them.   Now, if the elements do heat up, even if it’s just a little bit, then the problem is either with the oven (temperature) sensor or the oven control board – please refer to this blog for troubleshooting that issue.

 

CUT THE BREAKER!!! These next steps involve measuring circuit elements that run at HIGH VOLTAGE WHICH CAN KILL YOU when the breaker is on.

You’ll want to have a DMM or DVM (Digital Multi/Voltage Meter) that can measure electrical resistance.  There is a large variety of inexpensive meters available.  Below are two different kinds of meters – both are set to check for electrical resistance of up to 200 ohms (Ω).  Set your meter to the 200 Ω scale, and make sure the probes are connected to the common (black) and voltage (red) ports.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

First, let’s make sure the actual heating elements are not the problem.  You need to have the control board exposed, but still hooked up to the oven, and THE BREAKER SHOULD BE OFF. Near the element relays are the wiring tabs where the heating elements connect to the control board.  The upper oven elements are fed by the set of tabs labeled P18.  There should be two black wires on the two center tabs, and a red wire and an orange wire which connect to the outside tabs.  Stick your probes into the sockets where the orange and red wires connect to the board – you should be in the ballpark of 50 Ω.  The lower oven is fed by the other set of tabs, labeled P26.  Here, we want to stick the probes into the sockets occupied by the red (outside) and orange (center) wires – should also be around 50 Ω.   If these measurements check out, skip the rest of this paragraph.  If either one of these measurements are significantly far from 50 Ω (e.g. <35 Ω or >65 Ω) , or especially if the meter over-ranges (usually meters display a “1” on the far right of the screen when they over-range), then you need to individually inspect the element(s) in question.  Oven models are unique so I can’t give specific information on how to extract the heating elements from the oven cavity – you may want to have a technician do this with you – but it’s usually just a matter of removing some mounting screws, and you may have to get behind the oven to disconnect the wiring.  The heating elements are essentially long metal rods bent into a radiator-like shape (they’re basically radiators, after all).  The resistance from end-to-end of a broil (top) element should be about 20 Ω, and it should be about 30 Ω for a bake (bottom) element.  If any of these elements fail to meet approximate spec, they should probably be replaced – contact a technician.  If the elements are fine, but the measurements on the control board were bad, then it’s a wiring/connection issue.

So the elements aren’t the problem, but the thermal fuses could still definitely be bad – let’s see.  For these ovens, there are two different styles of control boards, which we’ll refer to as 2319 and 2697.  The easy way to tell which one you have is by looking at the right side of the back of the board: if it has two DLB (Double Line Break; photos below) relays, then it is a 2319, otherwise it’s a 2967.  Go to the appropriate paragraph.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302967 – no DLB relays.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302319 – has DLB relays.

Often, Whirlpool Control Board 8302319 is in a Plastic Case.

Troubleshooting 2319

Your board has the DLB relays.   Let’s check the upper oven thermal fuse first.  The upper oven DLB relay should have two solid red wires connected to it, and we need to figure out which one to use for the fuse test.  First, with your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, hold a probe to each of the contacts for the red wires – it should over-range, meaning that it is an open circuit (if your meter registers any resistance within the 200 Ω scale, then the relay is stuck and you need to send the board to www.FixYourBoard.com to be repaired).  Now, look at the other (lower oven) DLB relay.  This one should have one solid red wire, and one red wire with a white stripe.  The solid red wire on the lower oven DLB relay should be in closed circuit to one of the solid red wires on the upper oven DLB relay, and it should be open circuit to the other solid red wire.  Use your meter to find out which one – the meter should register a value (somewhere around 20-30 Ω) for the closed circuit, and it should over-range for the open circuit.  We want to use the solid red wire on the upper oven DLB that is open circuit to the solid red wire on the lower oven DLB.  Hold one of the probes to the contact for that solid red wire, and stick the other probe into either the orange or red wire socket connected to the P18 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced – take a note of that for now.

Now let’s look at the lower oven thermal fuse.  Hold one of your probes to the contact for the red wire with a white stripe that connects to the lower oven DLB relay.  Stick the other probe into the orange wire socket connected to the P26 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced.  Skip the 2967 troubleshooting paragraph to see about replacing these fuses.

Troubleshooting 2967

Your board does not have the DLB relays.  With your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, stick one of the probes into the socket for either the red or the orange wire that connects to the P18 tabs on the board.  Stick the other probe into the socket for the orange wire that connects to the P26 tabs.  In normal conditions, this should be a closed circuit – the meter should read a value around 40-60 Ω.  If the meter over-ranges, then either one or both of the thermal fuses are open.

Bad Thermal Fuse

The meter has told us one or both of the thermal fuses are bad.  These are mounted on the rear panel(s) of the oven(s), so you’re going to have to pull the double oven out from the kitchen wall to access them.  Open up the rear panel(s) of the oven(s) (some hardware will probably required), and you should find the thermal fuses mounted on the panel.  A red wire and an orange wire should be connected to one side of the fuse, while just one red wire is connected to the other side of the fuse.  This will be true of both the upper and lower thermal fuses, with one exception: if your oven is not self-cleaning, the lower thermal fuse will only have one orange wire on one side and one red wire on the other.  Disconnect the wiring and unmount the suspect fuse(s).  Use your meter to verify that the fuse(s) is/are open – holding one probe to each of the contacts should result in over-ranging in the 200 Ω scale if the fuse is open.  Contact a local appliance parts supplier or a site like www.RepairClinic.com to find the necessary replacement according to the part number and/or color markings on the fuse…

Color Markings___________Whirlpool Part Number

Pink/White Stripe__________4452223

Yellow/White Stripe________4451442

Red ____________________4450934

Orange/White Stripe________4450334

Blue____________________4450250

Green/White Stripe_________4450249

Blue/White Stripe__________8300802

Well that wraps it up! Hope all goes well in the kitchen, and always feel free to contact www.FixYourBoard.com for inquiries into control board repair/maintenance.

-Young Padawan

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Part Numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966

Meaning of F1,F2,F3,F4,F5,F6,F7 codes for Garland/Manitowoc Ovens

Garland oven controllers are programmed to give meaningful information if they enter into a fault condition.  This applies to most Garland ovens such as models: UCO-G-5, ECO-G-10, ECO-G-20, ICO-G-10, ICO-G-20, IC0-E-10 , ICO-E-20, ECO-E-10, ECO-E-20,MP-ES, MP-ED, MP-GS, MP-GD, PaceSetter EC-I-36, EC-II-36, EC-I-42, EC-II-42, GC-I-36,GC-II-36,GC-I-42,GC-II-42, Trendsetter ovens TE3, TE4, TTE3, TTE4, TE3/4-x, TTE3/4-X, TE3/4ECH, TTE3/4ECH, TG2A, TG3,TG4,TTG3,TTG4, Sunfire SDG-1 and SGD-2, TE2A, KFC MCO-G-5K and others.

Many times the result of the F code troubleshooting points to the control board /Timer/ERC.  Don’t worry, they can be rebuilt even if the part is no longer available (NLA) or obsolete.  With www.garland.fixyourboard.com , you will never have to scrap a commercial oven due to failed electronics.

Some part numbers that throw F-codes are: 1517700, 1517701, 1517702, 1517703,1544800, 1517704,1517705, 1517706, 1517710 ,1544801, 1933801, 1933701,4521705,4521282, 4515873, 1025299, 1025204,1034199, 1244705, 1285601, 1025204, 1244704, 1285700, 1905701, 1025204,1244705, 1905601 among others.

Here is a summary of the fault codes and their meaning:

F1Relay Output is Enabled When Not Cooking. The cook relay is closed with no call for heat.
-Control should be rebuilt.

F2 Over Temperature Alarm. The control is sensing an oven temperature 50 degrees or more above the
maximum temperature of 500F
.
-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance  and replace if faulty
-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F3Open Probe Circuit. The control is sensing an open circuit at the probe input.

-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance and replace if faulty.

-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F4Shorted Probe Circuit. The control is sensing a short circuit at the probe.
-Check the probe wiring and the probes resistance and replace if faulty
-If probe is functional, rebuild control.

F5Relay outputs not enabled when cooking. The control is in cook mode and the heat relay is not closing.
-The control should be rebuilt

F6No 60Hz input. The control does not sense the input power.
-Check the power supply for noise
-If the supply is correct, rebuild control.

F7 EEPROM. The control has detected that the calculated EEPROM check sum is incorrect.

-Reset power to control and if problem persists, rebuild control.

GE Double Built-in Oven – Install Problem After Rebuild. F2 Error and Oven Stays at 100 degrees

So you just got your GE control board refurbished from www.FixYourBoard.com and the controller appears to be doing strange things.  How can this be?  They have a 100% functional test for every outgoing board they rebuild.  Well, there is a good change that there may be an installation wiring problem.  This page describes a common hook up problem that fortunately is easy to correct and causes no permanent damage.  A partial list of model series that this applies to is: 3634842 9114842 JKP44GP JKP44GT JKP44GV JKP45WP JKP45WT JKP45WV JKP54GP JKP54GT JKP54GV JKP55WP JKP55WT JKP55WV JKP56AS JKP56AT JKP56AV ZEK754G ZEK755W ZEK756G ZEK757W.

The solution applies to most built in GE ovens, but the wire coloring may be different for some models.  Make sure you check your wiring diagram that is specific to your model number.

Symptom: F2 errors, oven display stays at 100 degrees, uneven cooking.

Description:  You turn on the upper oven and set the temperature.  The left orange numbers on the display light up and show the set temperature.  After about a minute the left temperature shows 100 degrees and stays there.  You check the upper oven, but it is not getting hot.  The lower oven starts to warm up.  If you set the lower oven, the exact opposite scenario exists.

Cause:

When the upper oven is set, the control board turns on power to the elements and measures the temperature in the upper oven.  The problem is that if the orange wire is connected to DLB2 instead of DLB1  and the yellow is connected to BA2 instead of BA1, the lower oven will begin to heat instead of the upper oven.  In short, the wiring is wrong and needs to match the wiring diagram.  Here is an example that covers most built-in GE ovens:

Upper Bake(BA1) – Yellow                        Lower Bake(BA2) – Yellow/White

Upper Broil(BR1) – Violet                          Lower Broil(BR2) – Violet/White

Upper DLB(DLB1) – Orange                     Lower DLB(DLB2) – Orange/White

A complete list of models is: 3634842594, 9114842593, 9114842594, 9114842993, JKP44GP1, JKP44GP2BG, JKP44GP3BG, JKP44GP4BG, JKP44GT1BB, JKP44GT2BB, JKP44GV1BB, JKP45WP1, JKP45WP2WG, JKP45WP3WG, JKP45WT1WW, JKP45WT2WW, JKP45WV1WW, JKP54GP1BG, JKP54GP2BG, JKP54GP3BG, JKP54GP4BG, JKP54GT1BB, JKP54GT2BB, JKP54GV1BB, JKP55WP1WG, JKP55WP2WG, JKP55WP3WG, JKP55WT1WW, JKP55WT2WW, JKP55WV1WW, JKP56AS1AA, JKP56AT1AA, JKP56AT2AA, JKP56AV1AA, ZEK754GP1, ZEK754GP2BG, ZEK754GP3BG, ZEK754GP4BG, ZEK754GP5BG, ZEK754GP6BG, ZEK754GP7BG, ZEK755WP1, ZEK755WP2WG, ZEK755WP3WG, ZEK755WP4WG, ZEK755WP5WG, ZEK755WP6WG, ZEK756GP2BG, ZEK756GP3BG, ZEK756GP4BG, ZEK756GP5BG, ZEK756GP6BG, ZEK756GP7BG, ZEK757WP1WG, ZEK757WP2WG, ZEK757WP3WG, ZEK757WP4WG, ZEK757WP5WG, ZEK757WP6WG, and more