KitchenAide KUIO15NNLS Ice Maker – Not Making Ice

KitchenAid KUIO15NNLS is Warm and not Making Ice

This page will explain how to troubleshoot a whirlpool ice machine and allow you to determine if your KitchenAid ice maker is hot due to the control board (wp # 8173919) or something else.  Control board 8173919 can be rebuilt at a fraction the cost of buying new.  A good place to have your control boards rebuilt is www.FixYourBoard.com.

I will try to isolate the problem to a section of the machine that will need to be serviced.  As always, when working with any home appliance, make sure that the power is removed before starting these procedures.  These steps assume that the inside of the ice maker is above 43 degrees.

To get to the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board, remove the following front cover.

After, the cover has been removed, you should see the following:

Now, remove the electronic control board covers.  You should have a view of the compressor, condenser, condenser fan and control board.  The control board looks like the following:

With the view of all the components mentioned above, plug in the ice machine.  Because the unit is above 43 degrees, the freeze cycle should start within 2 minutes of power up.

Step 1 To verify that the ice maker is in freeze mode:

2 minutes after power up, make the following observations:

– Condenser fan should be spinning

– compressor should be on.  Compressor should be vibrating, and the condenser coils should be warm to the touch after the compressor has been running for a couple of minutes.

– The water pump that circulates water over the evaporator coils should be running.

Step 2 – Condenser fan and pump were on, but condenser coil is not getting hot:

In this case, there is probably something wrong other than the control board.  To completely eliminate the control board, unplug the ice-maker and then disconnect the pink wire from the control board.  This controls the hot gas solenoid which controls whether the ice make is heating or cooling.  By disconnecting the pink wire, once the freezer is re-plugged, the hot gas solenoid will be de-energized and the system should be in a normal refrigerator like cooling mode.

Now, re-plug the ice-maker and observe the same things from step one.  Does the condenser coil start to warm up?  If not, the problem is with compressor, PTC relay, overload switch, hot gas solenoid/valve, bin thermostat or low freon.  If you are absolutely sure the compressor is on, the list of suspect things drops to compressor, hot gas solenoid/valve or low freon in the system.

Step 3 – Condenser fan on, water pump is on, condenser coils are hot:

At this step you are sure that the machine is in freeze mode by either removing the pink wire which drives the hot gas valve or measuring that the hot gas solenoid is de-energized.  This means that the evaporator coils should be getting very cold.   To check this, the top cover of the ice-machine must be removed.  There you will see the evaporator coils.  Here is an illustration:

Check that the evaporator coils are getting very cold and there is water flowing over them.  Ice should soon follow.

If there evaporator is hot or stays at room temperature, there is something wrong with the sealed system.  This could be low freon,  hot-gas valve,  other blockage in sealed system.

Step 4 – Everything Seems to be Working.  Condenser Coils are Getting Very Hot, Evaporator is Very Cold.  Is there Ice?

At this step, you have run your ice maker for about an hour and you are sure the evaporator coils are getting cold.  You also have seen that the water pump is functioning.  The next logical step is to see if there is ice where it is supposed to be.  Here are instructions for that.

Look behind the following ice chutes:

Behind these flaps you will see the ice chute, rear frame pipe and front frame pipe.  See below:

Now, look up on top of the ice chute.  You will see the bottom of the evaporator.  This is where the ice forms.  Can you see ice?