Cross-Referencing Oven Control Vocabulary: Control Boards, Clocks, Timers, ERCs, EOCs, Display Boards, Relay Boards, and Touchpads.

 

A valuable vocabulary lesson from a PCB repair company

The point of this blog is to dispel the confusion surrounding the nomenclature of oven control systems.

 

We are talking about the electronic circuit module that is generally mounted behind the control panel, containing the display which shows time and often the status of the oven. More importantly, however, control boards do exactly what their name says – they control all the functions of an oven.  They are also referred to as ERC (Electronic Range Control), EOC (Electronic Oven Control), Controller, Control Module or AssemblyPC(Printed Circuit Board), or PC Card.

Technicians will often refer to these as clocks or timers, since the clock is a prominent feature of oven control boards. And, before electronics were introduced to home appliances, the time was kept by a mechanical clock and the oven was controlled by a separate mechanical system. The clock often failed and needed to be repaired.

Today, oven control boards fail frequently and this company offers better repair service than anybody else! 

There are also many instances of one oven employing two or more control boards that govern different aspects of the oven. For example, there may be one board that contains the display and connects to the keypad, and there will be another board which manages the power of the oven elements and other hardware. In this case, the first board is called the Display Board, Display Head, or Control Head, and the second board is called the Power Relay Board or Appliance Manager.

We always recommend that all boards be sent in for inspection/repair if your oven is having control problems and it contains more than one board.

“How do I know if my oven has more than one board?”

Hopefully you have access to the tech sheet for your unit – sometimes they are taped to the back of the appliance. A tech sheet will contain a wiring diagram which shows all the connections between oven hardware and electronics. It will separate a display board from a power relay board should the appliance have multiple boards.

If you don’t have access to a tech sheet, don’t worry. Another easy way to tell is by identifying whether or not your control board has any relays on it. Relays are electronically controlled switches, and oven control boards generally use them to put high voltage on a heating element, among other things. These components are usually the bulkiest on a control board (aside from a transformer if your board has one). They are often black or white, and their shape is usually rectangular or boxy. They are almost always located right next to the wiring tabs where the colored wires that go to the heating elements, door latch, etc. attach.

If you don’t see anything like this on your control board, then there is an external relay board you haven’t found yet. However, the main control board (which almost always has the display) does control the relay board, and it has to connect to the relay baord to do so. There will be a wiring harness attached to the main control board which has several wires leading to the relay board. Following these wires is the easiest way to locate an external relay board. If you have a double oven with external relay boards, there is likely a relay board for each oven.

Remember, these relay board control high voltage, so if you’re digging around in your oven to find a board, MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF.

Lastly, there is the means by which you control your control board – the touchpad (if your control doesn’t have buttons built into the board).  This can also be referred to as the Keypad, Control Panel, Button Panel, or some other similar term.  Often, the touchpad is built into the front panel behind which the control board is mounted.  Sometimes, the touchpad is part of the control assembly.  Regardless, the touchpad and the control board are separate entities.   I’ve never seen a touchpad failure be the result of a control board problem.

What is a touchpad failure? Sometimes the control board will throw an error code: F0, F1, F7, F9, E0F2, E1F1, and  E1F2 are all common touchpad failure codes.  If the board is powered up but pressing buttons yields limited or no response, it’s likely the touchpad has failed.

Seldom can a touchpad be repaired.  The normal solution is to replace the touchpad, which generally means replacing the whole front panel.  There are two types of touchpads: Membrane Switches and Capacitive Glass.

If your panel is glass, you have the latter kind.  This sophisticated design is actually sensitive to the conductance of human skin, which manipulates an electrical field when you hold your finger to the button.  And, there’s actually no button – you just touch the labelled area of the glass to input a command.  Capacitive touchpads contain their own electronic circuit boards which create signals and send them to the main control board for interpretation. These touchpads are really nice, but also quite delicate and expensive to replaced.

Membrane Switches are an older design consisting of a number of contacts arranged in a switching matrix, such that pressing any one button creates a unique short circuit between two of many contacts on a ribbon cable that connects to the control board.  The main control microprocessor interprets each short as a specific function.  Rarely, these can be repaired, but often replacement is the only option.

This company does carry its own line of replacement touchpads for select Whirlpool/KitchenAid Ovens, and is continuously expanding that inventory to more ovens as time goes on.  Yet, we also have the capability to modify your panel with a new touchpad that is functionally equivalent to your original in the event that your membrane switch fails and no replacements are available.

Bottom Line:

You now know the proper name for each aspect of an oven control system, and this company will help you regardless of which part has failed.

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing E1F2? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/KitchenAid Oven

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your Whirlpool/KitchenAid  oven?  Don’t worry, we have a new keypad solution.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.

For $300 or less, you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like E1F2. Applianceboards can custom build new, more robust, membrane switches that stick right onto your original panel.

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 

PARTS:

 

4451066, 4451067, 4452035, 4452036, 4451322, 4451323, 4452040, 4452041, 4451301, 4451302, 4451304, 4451305, 4451307, 4451308, 4451310, 4451311, 4451313, 4451314, 4451316, 4451327, 4451328, 4451333, 4451334, 4451336, 4451337, 4451339, 4451340, 4451341, 4451342, 4451343, 4451345, 4451346, 4451347, 4451348, 8300457, 8300460, W10161677

MODELS: 

CAWX629JQ0, EAT19PMW6, EAT19PTWR6, EAT19PTW6, ED20TQXEW00, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDB1, GBD277PDQ0, GBD277PDQ1, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDB0, GBD307PDB1, GBD307PDQ0, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDS1, GBS277PDB0, GBS277PDB1, GBS277PDQ0, GBS277PDQ1, GBS277PDS1, GBS307PDB0, GBS307PDB1, GBS307PDQ0, GBS307PDQ1, GBS307PDS1, GBS307PDT1, GMC275PDB0, GMC275PDB1, GMC275PDQ0, GMC275PDQ1, GMC275PDS1, GMC305PDB1, GMC305PDQ0, GMC305PDQ1, GSC308PJB2, GSC308PJB3, GSC308PJB4, GSC308PJQ2, GSC308PJQ3, GSC308PJQ4, GSC308PJS2, KEMC307KBL0, KEMC308KBL0, KEMC308KBT0, KEMC308KSS0, KEMC308KWH0, KEMS308GBL3, KEMS308GSS0, KEMS308GSS1, KEMS308GSS2, KEMS308GSS3, KEMS308GWH3, LA7800XTN1, M1100, PDB1420AWX, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB3, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD245PDQ4, RBD245PDQ6, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ3, RBD275PDQ4, RBD275PDQ6, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDQ4, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBS245PDB1, RBS245PDB2, RBS245PDB4, RBS245PDB6, RBS245PDQ1, RBS245PDQ2, RBS245PDQ4, RBS245PDQ6, RBS275PDB1, RBS275PDB2, RBS275PDB4, RBS275PDB6, RBS275PDQ1, RBS275PDQ2, RBS275PDQ4, RBS275PDQ6, RBS277PDB1, RBS305PDB1, RBS305PDB2, RBS305PDB4, RBS305PDB6, RBS305PDQ1, RBS305PDQ2, RBS305PDQ4, RBS305PDQ6, RBS305PDZ1, RB788GD1, and more

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing F1/F7? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef Oven

Can’t buy a  keypad for your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef  oven?  Don’t worry, there is a keypad solution that costs less than $130.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.   The model series is RB26, CWE9, W131, A947, C987, 9875, CWE7, 7721 and A987  from  the following manufactures:  Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper

 

For $120 (click here) , you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom-built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/JennAir/Magic Chef/Maytag ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 or F7.  The modification fits a new membrane switch on top of your original panel.

Common JennAir/Maytag Obsolete Touchpad

drill_out_wknob_annot

Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 
Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”

PARTS:

4381512 – $120 on Amazon

4381513 – $150 on Amazon,

74001423 – $150 on Amazon

74001424 – $150 on Amazon

74001230 –$150 on Amazon

74001231 – $150 on Amazon

7721P036-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P040-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P041-60 – $150 on Amazon

879472 – $150 on Amazon

879473 – $150 on Amazon

879476 – $150 on Amazon

879477 – $150 on Amazon

Don’t see your part number or model number? Have questions? Contact info@applianceboards.com.
MODELS: 

CWE9000BCE, CWE9000BDE, CWE9000CDE, CWE9000DDE, CWE9000BCB, CWE9000DDB, CWE9000BDB, CWE9000CDB, 9475VRV, 9875VRV, 9475XRB, 9875XRB, A9475XRB, A9475VRV, A9875XRB,  A9875VRV, C9875VRV, C9875XRB, L9875XRB, RB262PXAB0, RB262PXAB1, RB262PXAB2, RB262PXAB3, RB262PXAB4, RB262PXAB5, RB262PXAB6, RB262PXAQ0, RB262PXAQ2, RB262PXAQ3, RB262PXAQ4, RB262PXAQ5, RB262PXAQ6, RB262PXAW0, W131B, W131W, W131W-C

F1 Error Code in Whirlpool RB160, RB260, RB270, RB770, RF396, RM765, RM770, RS675, RS696 Series Ovens and Thermador RDDS30, RDF30, RDFS30, RDSS30, RED30, REF30, RES30, RSS30 Series Ovens

This article refers to a specific problem we’ve been encountering with two different types of oven control boards – the relevant model and part numbers can be found at the end of the article.

These control boards can throw F1 error codes in response to a variety of failures.  Often, these error codes are the result of bad power supply or logic control circuits that can be repaired at FixYourBoard.com.  However, we have been finding that even after a control board is rebuilt and passes a full function test, it still throws F1 when reinstalled in the original oven.  How can this be?

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

It turns out that these control boards connect to the platinum temperature sensing rods through wire nuts.  The connection in the wire nut is going high resistance, which causes the control board to think the oven cavity is over temperature…resulting in an F1 overheat error code.  This connection seems especially susceptible to temperature change as well, so this problem is especially apparent as you start heating the oven.

So, if you’ve had your board rebuilt by FixYourBoard.com or recently got the board replaced, and you’ve replaced the temperature sensor, but you’re still getting an F1, inspect these wire nuts!  The easiest way to find the wire nuts will be to follow the wiring with your hand (make sure the breaker is off) from the temperature sensor (or from the board if you know which wires go to the sensor).

You will likely find that the wiring inside the nut has rusted/corroded.  We recommend you cut off the already exposed portions of the wire and strip some insulation off, allowing “fresh” wire to be reconnected in a new wire nut.

Remember to have all your control board needs handled at FixYourBoard.com!

 

Part Numbers: 14-33-347, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258, 3169259, 486752

Model Numbers: RB160PXB02, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXYB6, RB170PXB02, RB170PXBB, RB170PXBQ2, RB260PBYQ, RB260PXB1, RB260PXBB1, RB260PXBB2, RB260PXBQ, RB260PXBQ1, RB260PXBQ2, RB260PXYB, RB260PXYB0, RB260PXYB1, RB260PXYQ, RB260PXYQ0, RB270PXBB0, RB270PXBB1, RB270PXBO1, RB270PXBQ2, RB270PXY, RB270PXYB, RB270PXYB RB270PXYB-0, RB270PXYB1, RB270PXYQ, RB270PXYQ0, RB270RXBB1, RB760POXYB2, RB760PXB, RB760PXB01, RB760PXBB0, RB760PXBB2, RB760PXBQ, RB760PXYQ, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXBQ1, RB770PXBQ2, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RDDS30, RDDS30QVB, RDDS30RS, RDDS30RVS, RDDS30V, RDDS30VPS, RDDS30VQ, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VQS, RDDS30VQW, RDDS30VRS, RDDS30VRS/01, RDDS30VRS/02FD, RDDS30VRS/03SD, RDDS30VRS03, RDDS30VRSFD, RDDS30ZQB, RDF30, RDF30Q, RDF30QB, RDF30QS, RDF30QW, RDF30QW RDF30RS, RDF30RS, RDFS30, RDFS30QS, RDFS30QW, RDFS30RS, RDS30V, RDS530RS, RDSF30RS, RDSS30, RDSS304S, RDSS30Q, RDSS30QB, RDSS30QW, RDSS30QW RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS-02, RED30RS01, RED30V, RED30VQB RED30VQBK, RED30VQW, RED30VRS, REF30, REF30QS, REF30RS, RES30QW, RES30RS, RF396PXYN, RF768PXYQ, RFB260PXBQ2, RH770PXBQ2, RM765PXAB0, RM765PXBB2, RM770PXBB1, RM770PXBB2, RM770PXBQ2, RS6755XYN1, RS6755XYW0, RS675PXBQ1, RS675PXBQ2, RS675PXYQ0, RS677PXYQ, RS696B02, RS696PXBB2, RS696PXYB, RS696PXYB0, RS696PXYB2, RS696TXYQ02, RS69PXBB3, RSS30RS, RX260PXYQ01, W305B, WPLRM770PXAB0

WB27K5040 Conversion Kit – JTP10 JTP11 JTP13 JTP14 JTP15 Series GE Built-In Double Ovens

A vast majority of the time, no longer available  electronic controllers can be rebuilt to function like new.    In some cases, these obsolete controllers have so much damage that a rebuild is not feasible.   Don’t worry, there is still another option to avoid a costly appliance purchase.  WWW.FixYourBoard.com can modify your front panel to accommodate a new controller!  This blog illustrates the minor wiring modifications that are needed for some common GE controllers.

Parts:  WB27K5040, WB27K5190, WB27K5195, WB27K5123, WB27X5584, WB27K5054, WB27X5572, WB12K005, WB12K006, WB27K5073, WB27X5482

Models: JBP48AY1, JBP48WY1, JBP79AV1, JBP79AV2, JBP79AW1, JBP79AY1, JBP79GV1, JBP79GV2, JBP79GW1, JBP79WS2, JDP36GP3AD, JDP36GP3WH, JDP37GP3BG, JDP39WR1, JDP39WR3WH, JKP13GP1, JKP13GP2BG, JKP13GP3BG, JKP13GP4BG, JKP13GT1BB, JKP13GV1BB, JKP14WP1, JKP14WP2WG, JKP14WP3WG, JKP14WT1WW, JKP14WV1WW, JKP15AV1AA, JKP26GP1, JKP26GP2BG, JKP26GP3BG, JKP26GP4BG, JKP26GV1BB, JKP27WP1, JKP27WP2WG, JKP27WP3WG, JKP27WV1WW, JMP28GR1AD, JMP28GR1WH, JMP29GR1BK, JMP31WR1WH, JMP32AR1AG, JSP69BVBB, JSP69WVWW, JSS26GP2BG, JTP10GP, JTP10GS1BG, JTP10GS2BG, JTP10GS3BG, JTP10GS4BG, JTP11WP, JTP11WS1WG, JTP11WS2WG, JTP11WS3WG, JTP11WS4WG, JTP13GT1BB, JTP13GV1BB, JTP13GV2BB, JTP14WT1WW, JTP14WV1WW, JTP14WV2WW, JTP15BW1BB, JTP15WW1WW, JTP15WW2WW and more

WB27K5040 Conversion Kit – JTP10 JTP11 JTP13 JTP14 JTP15 Series GE Built-In Double Ovens

WB27K5040 Conversion Kit – JTP10 JTP11 JTP13 JTP14 JTP15 Series GE Built-In Double Ovens

Thats it, follow the illustration above and you will be cooking in no time!  Remember www.fixyourboard.com for a all your electronic control board problems.

Dead GE double oven? Transformer or Controller? Troubleshooting Guide

This guide will help you identify what problems you may have in the power supply to the electronics in your GE double oven.  Some symptoms you may be experiencing include, but are not limited to:
  • Blank display or no beeping
  • F1 error code
  • Oven seems dead

Generally, these are signs of a failed controller, but sometimes blank display or dead oven are simply the result of a failed transformer.  I say “simply” because it is much less expensive and much easier to replace/fix the transformer than it is the controller.  The objective of this post is to help you figure out which is the faulty part so you can send the right one to www.FixYourBoard.com to be repaired.

You’ll need an AC voltmeter as well as a basic tool set handy (pretty much just the right sized screwdriver).

The first thing to do is cut the breaker to your oven before you start taking it apart – we don’t want anybody getting killed by high voltage.

Next, you’ll need to expose your controller.  Refer to this post for help if you don’t know how to access the control unit.  There is no need to disconnect anything – that could actually make your measurements useless.  Once it’s exposed, make sure you can comfortably touch the various wiring harnesses with the voltmeter probes.  If it’s going to be a struggle, you may want to demount the unit from the panel to get some more slack.

Now, turn the breaker back on.  You’ll need to be very careful from here on.  Even though the controller is mostly a low voltage device, there are still points of high voltage on the relay board, and you can still cause electrical damage if you probe the wrong places.  Wall power goes into a transformer somewhere off the control module, and the transformer steps the wall power down to low voltage and routes that to the control board.  The low voltage comes into the board at the white wiring connector labeled J1.  It’s near the black connector receiving the clear, thin ribbon cable from the keypad (see photo).

The transformer sends two separate low voltages to the control board, 21.5 VAC and 4.6 VAC.  These voltages are approximate: as long is you’re in the ballpark, you should be good.  Also, it’s important to note that there are many variations of this control module.  Yours may look a bit different from the one depicted below, but you should still be getting the same supply from the transformer.  The photo shows a unit with all the wiring detached – yours should have a wiring harness occupying the J1 connector, but you should be able to stick the voltmeter probes along the wires into the sockets of the harness to take measurements.  If not, cut the breaker, disconnect the harness from J1 connector, turn the breaker back on, and probe the bottom side of the harness.  You should measure voltages according the photo.  Note that the empty slot is referred to as pins 3.

GE double oven electronic control board

Probes on pins 1 and 2 is one measurement. Probes on pins 4 and 5 is a separate measurement. The empty slot is referred to as Pin 3.

If you measure the proper voltages, then you know the transformer is not the issue.  Make sure the wiring harness is well connected, clean, and making good contact.  If you’re still having problems as described at the beginning, then the controller is the problem, and you should send it to FixYourBoard.com for repair.

If you aren’t reading these voltages, then you either have a bad transformer, or bad wiring.  Cut the breaker, and follow the wires back to the transformer.  These four wires come out of the secondary side of the transformer.  There should be another two wires going into the other side of the transformer, the primary side.  With the breaker on, you should measure 120VAC going into the primary.  I shouldn’t need to tell you how DANGEROUS 120VAC is.  If you measure 120VAC at the primary, check to see if you get 21.5 and 4.6 right at the secondary.  If not for either one, then the transformer is definitely bad and you should contact FixYourBoard.com for repair.  If you have these voltages right at the transformer, but not at the board, then the wiring has broken down somewhere between and needs to be fixed.  If you’re not getting 120VAC into the transformer primary, then you have a serious electrical wiring problem in your wall which should be addressed by a professional (e.g. electrician).

I hope you found this guide helpful! Remember you can always email info@fixyourboard.com with questions.

-Young Padawan

Whirlpool RM278, RM288 series with common failures (Blanking display, F1, F2 and F3 errors, random resetting and beeping)

3148270, 3148271, 3148272, 3148273, 3148274, 3148275 are common control boards that have been showing up at www.FixYourBoard.com.   They fit into the following model numbers:  RM288PXS0, RM288PXV4, RM288PXV5,  RM288PXV6,  RM288PXV7,  RM278BXS0,  RM278BXV0,  RM278BXV2,  RM278BXV4,  RM278BXV5, RM278BXV6 ,RM278BXV7.  There are slight variations in color and functionality, but they are similar to the following:

The common failures are blanking display, random clock resets, F1, F2, F2 errors, and beeping/chirping noises.    No worries, all these symptoms can be repaired.  There is no reason to buy new as the warranty on refurbished timers is longer that a new.  Contact www.fixyourboard.com for more information.

Newly Obsoleted Whirlpool Control Boards – FixYourBoard can still repair them!

This is an appliance PSA from your friends at FixYourBoard.com:

The recent disasters in Japan have severely interrupted the Whirlpool Corporation’s manufacture and warranty service of the following parts:

W10023340, 9781981, W10110646, W10163334, 3187099, 8184747, 3169258, 3169259, 3181703, W10121375, W10031410, W10048200, 2252161, 8182651, 3181705, 4389211, 4389570, 77001200, 2252159, 31944801, 12001613, W10110658, 33001129, W10206049, 3407099, 25001217, 3977289D, 9752277CT, 77001219, 9752277CW, 9781980, 12001613, 12566102, 12920710, 71002331, 74009315, 8523666, 8571916, 71003401, 74009317, 8523876, 8574969,W10084141, W10114385, W10084142, W10116541, 22003906, 74006363, 8523879, 8576472, W10108090, 22004317, 74006612, 8524212, 9754378, W10108100, 2304093, 4452444, 74006613, 8524213, 9759149, W10108110, 2304103, 4456048, 74006614, 8524250, 9760013, W10108140, 2313172, 5701M748-60, 74007213, 8524252, 9761593, W10108180, 6610152 , 6610157, 6610180, 6610189, 2321710, 6610279, 74007226, 8524346, 9762810, W10108190, W10132445, 25001218, 6610321, 74007234, 8524347, 9762811, W10108220, W10135901, 3149459, 6610322, 74008312, 8531292, 9762812, W10108230, W10138139, 31771301, 6610333, 74008313, 8541034, 9782087CW, W10108280, W10174745, 31864501, 6610444, 74008878, 8544799, 9782435, W10114364, W10189971, 31898501, 6610445, 74008952, 74009318, 8564291, 9782437, W10114365, 3191106, 6610449, 74008960, 74009319, 8564372, 9782438, W10114369, 3191107, 6610450, 74008988, 74009320, 8564376, 9782455, W10114370, 319166, 6610456, 74008998, 74009559 8564391, 99002823, W10114371, 31949201, 6610483, 74009002, 74009714, 8564393, 99002824, W10114380, 3196970, 71001799, 74009003, 7428P009-60, 8564396, 99002825, W10114381, 3196971, 71001872, 74009154, 8564400, 99002827, W10114383, 3398084, 71002215, 74009166, 7601P154-60, 8571359, W10051096, W10114384, 7601P155-60, 7601P156-60, 7601P158-60, 7601P233-60, 77001239, 8051136, 8300795, 8302210, 8302994, 8303491, 8523665, W10116542, W10116564, W10116718, W10131867, W10131868, W10236275, W10249219, W10272495, W10299400, W10353224, Y0309305, Y0315030, 2252115, W10116566, 4456033, 2304050, W10340941, 8302967, W10116565, W10352983, W10406070.

This could be a serious problem if you suspect you have a failed controller or are experiencing any error codes (e.g. ‘E6F2’ ; ‘E1F2’ ; ‘F1’ ; ‘F3’ ; ‘F5’ ; ‘F7’).  But fear not, because here at FixYourBoard.com, we have the know-how and equipment to repair these parts and get your kitchen going again!   Visit our website for instructions on how to send in your board, and we’ll take care of the rest.

Cheers!

-Young Padawan

Thermador Built-In Oven – Takes Too Long to Heat, Can’t Control Temperature, No Heat

Does your Thermador oven have temperature control problems caused by the control board?  The following post describes the behavior of a properly working control board in pre-heat.  This applies to the following model series: SCD27,  SCD30,  SCE30,  SCE70,  SC272,  SC301,  SC302,  SMWS7,  SMW27,  SM272,  SVD48,  S272T,  S301T and  S302T.  At www.FixYourBoard.com, we hear about problems such as the oven taking too long to heat, temperature fluctuations in the oven, oven is burning food or there is no heat at all.

First, the picture below shows the relevant connections  that should be measured to ensure that the elements are correctly turned on by the relays.  This picture is an example of part 492067 which is the power / relay board.  Its purpose is to provide power to the oven, turn on heating elements and fans, and communicate with the display board.

thermador_relay_power_board controller

Relay Board and Noted Measurement Points

These ovens can be tricky to troubleshoot, but start with the following table which shows how the timer is controlling the heating elements and cooling fans.  Note that an AC voltmeter must be used to perform the following checks

Thermador Pre-Heat Cycling

Pre-Heat ModeBake to L2 Broil 1 to L2Broil 2 to L2DLB relayCooling Fan Relay
Bake ModeOn 50 sec = 0VAC
Off 10 sec = 240VAC
Off 50 sec = 240VAC
On 5 sec = 0VAC
Always off = 240VACAlways on = 0VACAlways on = 0VAC
Convection
Roast
Always off = 240VACOn 30 sec = 0VAC
Off 30 sec = 240VAC
On 30 sec = 0VAC
Off 30 sec = 240VAC
Always on = 0VACAlways on = 0VAC
Convection Bake ModeAlways off = 240VACAlways off = 240VACAlways on = 0VACAlways on = 0VACAlways on = 0VAC
Broil ModeAlways off = 240VACAlways on = 0VACAlways off = 240VACAlways on = 0VACAlways on = 0VAC

Relevant model numbers:  1065923121 , 1065923160 , 1065923161 , 1065923200 , 1066025120 , 1066025150 , 1066025151 , 1066025160 , 1066025201 , SCD272T , SCD302T , SCE30500W , SCE30600B , SCE70600B , SCE70600W , SC272T , SC301T , SC302T , SMWS72YP AFTER S/N 8204 , SMW272B , SMW272P , SMW272S , SMW272W , SMW272YB AFTER S/N 8204 , SMW272YS AFTER S/N 8204 , SMW272YW AFTER S/N 8204 , SMW272ZS AFTER S/N 8204 , SM272B , SM272S , SM272W , SM272YB AFTER S/N 8204 , SM272YS AFTER S/N 8204 , SM272YW AFTER S/N 8204 , SM272ZS AFTER S/N 8204 , SVD48600B , SVD48600PF , SVD48600PG , SVD48600PK , SVD48600PR , SVD48600PT , S272T , S301T , S302T

Relevant part numbers: 35-00-760, 12001691, 492071, 14-38-901, 492069, 492067

Thermador Oven Control Board 486752 / 14-33-347 – Door Lock Sequence and Errors

Are you having door lock problems with your Thermador control board 486752 or 14-33-347,  487604 or 316080103.   At www.FixYourBoard.com, we get questions about the door lock operation for this controller.  This post addresses this by describing the sequence of events when the controller is programmed for a clean cycle.    We hope this information will help you  troubleshoot door lock issues with the following model numbers: RDDS30, RDDS30QW, RDDS30V, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VRS, RDDS30VRS, RDFS30, RDF30, RDF30QB, RDF30QW, RDF30RS, RDF30RS, RDSS30, RED30V, RED30VQB, RED30VQRS, RED30VQW, REF30, REF30QB, REF30QW, REF30RS, RES30, RES30QB, RES30RS, RES30W, RDDS30, RDDS30QW, RDDS30, RDDS30V, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VRS, RDFS30, RDF30, RDF30QB, RDF30QW, RDF30RS, RDSS30, RED30V, RED30VQB, RED30VQRS, RED30VQW, REF30, REF30QB, REF30QW, REF30RS,  RES30,  RES30QB,  RES30RS,  RES30W.

State 1 -Clean Button Pressed and Time Set  (Door still unlocked)

Note that the blue display show that clean mode has been selected and the total time for the clean mode.  The state of the switches is shown in the diagram.  Pins 7 and 8 are shorted together with switch #1.  This is the un-locked state.

Thermador_486752_clean_start1

State 1 -Display As Soon as Clean Time is Programmed

State 2 – Automatic Door Locks are Running (One Second after State 1)

After a second in state 1, the following happens:

  1. The clean light comes on.
  2. Controller turns on the door lock motor.
  3. This state only last until motor releases switch 1 and pins 7 and 8 are no longer connected.

 

Thermador_486752_clean_start2

 

State 3 – Lock Motor Still Spinning and Switch #1 is Not Pressed anymore.

Pins 7, 8 and 9 are not connected and the motor is still spinning.

Note that the display shows the “locked” even though switch #2 is not pressed yet and door is not locked.  

 

Thermador_486752_clean_door_all_pins_open

 

State 4 – Lock Motor has Stopped Spinning Because Switch #2 shorted pin 7 to 9.  Oven has turned on the heating elements.

Note that the display now says “ON”.  This means that switch #2 was pressed by the lock motor which shorted pin 7 to 9.  The oven will now reach cleaning temperature.

 

Thermador_486752_clean_on

 

State 5 – Fault State.  If the controller does not sense the door lock on pins 7 and 9.

In this fault mode, the controller will beep and show door on the screen.

Thermador_486752_clean_door_error

Error State – Control did not receive the locked signal on pins 7 and 9.