Electric Double Wall/Built-in Whirlpool Oven Dead? Could be open thermal fuse

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven

Electronic Control Board for Whirpool Double Electric Oven

 

Does your oven display look like this?  Is the oven completely dead, whether or not you’ve already had the control board rebuilt by a PCB repair company?  This is probably just the result of an open fuse in-line with the black “hot” wire to the control board transformer.

 

Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Check for continuity through thermal fuse in-line with black wire, then 120VAC across black and white wires

Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity through the fuse.  If open, it needs to be replaced.   If the fuse is OK, but the board is totally dead, check that there is 120VAC across the “hot” wire with fuse and white neutral wire in the caddy-corner wiring harness.  If you’re getting 120VAC there but the board is still completely dead, consult a PCB repair company to get the board repaired.

 

PART NUMBERS:

4448876, 4452242

MODEL NUMBERS: 

GBD277PDB0, GBD307PDQ0, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PD02, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDD4, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ4, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB4, RBD305, RBD305PD04, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ3, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ1, RBD307PDB4, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4, GBD277PDB1, GBD307PD, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDS1, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ6, RBD245PR, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ6, RBD275PDQ8, RBD276PDB6, RBD276PDD6, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDBG, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB06, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ6, RBD386PDQ6, RBD275PDB6, GBD277PDB1, RBD275PDQ6, RBD306PDB6, RBD245PDB6, GBD307PDS1, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ6, GBD277PDQ1, RBD276PDB6, GBD307PDB1, RBD245PDQ6, RBD276PDQ6, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDT1, GDB277PDB1, GDB277PDQ1, RBD305PDQ6, RBD305PDB6, RBD275PDQ2, , RBD275PDB4, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD306PDB1, , RBD245PDB1, RBD275PDB1, , RBD275PDQ1, , RBD275PDQ4, RBD305PDQ4, GBD307PDB0, RBD245PDQ4, RBD275PDB2, , RBD275PDQ3, RBD277PDQ2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDQ3, RBD245PDB3, RBD276PDQ2, RBD276PDQ4, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ4, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDQ0, GBD307PDQ0, PBK1227, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD275PDB3, RBD276PDB1, RBD276PDB2, RBD276PDB4, RBD276PDQ1, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB3, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBD306PDZ4, RBD307PDB1, RBD307PDB2, RBD307PDQ1, RBD307PDQ2, RBD307PDQ4

 

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing E1F2? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/KitchenAid Oven

Are you having trouble finding a keypad for your Whirlpool/KitchenAid  oven?  Don’t worry, we have a new keypad solution.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.

For $300 or less, you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like E1F2. Applianceboards can custom build new, more robust, membrane switches that stick right onto your original panel.

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Decal covers the original buttons and new touchpads are applied to the original panel

Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 

PARTS:

 

4451066, 4451067, 4452035, 4452036, 4451322, 4451323, 4452040, 4452041, 4451301, 4451302, 4451304, 4451305, 4451307, 4451308, 4451310, 4451311, 4451313, 4451314, 4451316, 4451327, 4451328, 4451333, 4451334, 4451336, 4451337, 4451339, 4451340, 4451341, 4451342, 4451343, 4451345, 4451346, 4451347, 4451348, 8300457, 8300460, W10161677

MODELS: 

CAWX629JQ0, EAT19PMW6, EAT19PTWR6, EAT19PTW6, ED20TQXEW00, GBD277PDB0, GBD277PDB1, GBD277PDQ0, GBD277PDQ1, GBD277PDS1, GBD307PDB0, GBD307PDB1, GBD307PDQ0, GBD307PDQ1, GBD307PDS1, GBS277PDB0, GBS277PDB1, GBS277PDQ0, GBS277PDQ1, GBS277PDS1, GBS307PDB0, GBS307PDB1, GBS307PDQ0, GBS307PDQ1, GBS307PDS1, GBS307PDT1, GMC275PDB0, GMC275PDB1, GMC275PDQ0, GMC275PDQ1, GMC275PDS1, GMC305PDB1, GMC305PDQ0, GMC305PDQ1, GSC308PJB2, GSC308PJB3, GSC308PJB4, GSC308PJQ2, GSC308PJQ3, GSC308PJQ4, GSC308PJS2, KEMC307KBL0, KEMC308KBL0, KEMC308KBT0, KEMC308KSS0, KEMC308KWH0, KEMS308GBL3, KEMS308GSS0, KEMS308GSS1, KEMS308GSS2, KEMS308GSS3, KEMS308GWH3, LA7800XTN1, M1100, PDB1420AWX, RBD245PDB1, RBD245PDB2, RBD245PDB3, RBD245PDB4, RBD245PDB6, RBD245PDQ1, RBD245PDQ2, RBD245PDQ3, RBD245PDQ4, RBD245PDQ6, RBD275PDB1, RBD275PDB2, RBD275PDB3, RBD275PDB4, RBD275PDB6, RBD275PDQ1, RBD275PDQ2, RBD275PDQ3, RBD275PDQ4, RBD275PDQ6, RBD305PDB1, RBD305PDB2, RBD305PDB4, RBD305PDB6, RBD305PDQ1, RBD305PDQ2, RBD305PDQ4, RBD305PDQ6, RBD306PDB1, RBD306PDB2, RBD306PDB4, RBD306PDB6, RBD306PDQ1, RBD306PDQ2, RBD306PDQ4, RBD306PDQ6, RBD306PDZ1, RBD306PDZ2, RBS245PDB1, RBS245PDB2, RBS245PDB4, RBS245PDB6, RBS245PDQ1, RBS245PDQ2, RBS245PDQ4, RBS245PDQ6, RBS275PDB1, RBS275PDB2, RBS275PDB4, RBS275PDB6, RBS275PDQ1, RBS275PDQ2, RBS275PDQ4, RBS275PDQ6, RBS277PDB1, RBS305PDB1, RBS305PDB2, RBS305PDB4, RBS305PDB6, RBS305PDQ1, RBS305PDQ2, RBS305PDQ4, RBS305PDQ6, RBS305PDZ1, RB788GD1, and more

Obsolete Keypad/Touchpanel Unresponsive or Causing F1/F7? Don’t Scrap Your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef Oven

Can’t buy a  keypad for your Whirlpool/JennAir/Maytag/Magic Chef  oven?  Don’t worry, there is a keypad solution that costs less than $130.  This page discusses an option that will keep you from having to replacing an oven which can cost thousands of dollars.   The model series is RB26, CWE9, W131, A947, C987, 9875, CWE7, 7721 and A987  from  the following manufactures:  Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper

 

For $120 (click here) , you can have functionality restored to your oven with a custom-built keypad.  Most parts for Whirlpool/JennAir/Magic Chef/Maytag ovens are available for a very long time but the touch pad seems to be an exception to this.  The control panel is made of a sealed membrane switch that wears out over time.  Once this part fails, the oven can become unresponsive, beep randomly or throw error codes like F1 or F7.  The modification fits a new membrane switch on top of your original panel.

Common JennAir/Maytag Obsolete Touchpad

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Below is a list of part numbers that you can’t buy and corresponding model numbers that apply.  If you don’t see your model, contact info@applianceboards.com for help.

 
Ready to send your panel? Use the Amazon checkout process for “start to finish tracking”

PARTS:

4381512 – $120 on Amazon

4381513 – $150 on Amazon,

74001423 – $150 on Amazon

74001424 – $150 on Amazon

74001230 –$150 on Amazon

74001231 – $150 on Amazon

7721P036-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P040-60 – $150 on Amazon

7721P041-60 – $150 on Amazon

879472 – $150 on Amazon

879473 – $150 on Amazon

879476 – $150 on Amazon

879477 – $150 on Amazon

Don’t see your part number or model number? Have questions? Contact info@applianceboards.com.
MODELS: 

CWE9000BCE, CWE9000BDE, CWE9000CDE, CWE9000DDE, CWE9000BCB, CWE9000DDB, CWE9000BDB, CWE9000CDB, 9475VRV, 9875VRV, 9475XRB, 9875XRB, A9475XRB, A9475VRV, A9875XRB,  A9875VRV, C9875VRV, C9875XRB, L9875XRB, RB262PXAB0, RB262PXAB1, RB262PXAB2, RB262PXAB3, RB262PXAB4, RB262PXAB5, RB262PXAB6, RB262PXAQ0, RB262PXAQ2, RB262PXAQ3, RB262PXAQ4, RB262PXAQ5, RB262PXAQ6, RB262PXAW0, W131B, W131W, W131W-C

F1 Error Code in Whirlpool RB160, RB260, RB270, RB770, RF396, RM765, RM770, RS675, RS696 Series Ovens and Thermador RDDS30, RDF30, RDFS30, RDSS30, RED30, REF30, RES30, RSS30 Series Ovens

This article refers to a specific problem we’ve been encountering with two different types of oven control boards – the relevant model and part numbers can be found at the end of the article.

These control boards can throw F1 error codes in response to a variety of failures.  Often, these error codes are the result of bad power supply or logic control circuits that can be repaired at FixYourBoard.com.  However, we have been finding that even after a control board is rebuilt and passes a full function test, it still throws F1 when reinstalled in the original oven.  How can this be?

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

Electronic Control Board Rebuilds

It turns out that these control boards connect to the platinum temperature sensing rods through wire nuts.  The connection in the wire nut is going high resistance, which causes the control board to think the oven cavity is over temperature…resulting in an F1 overheat error code.  This connection seems especially susceptible to temperature change as well, so this problem is especially apparent as you start heating the oven.

So, if you’ve had your board rebuilt by FixYourBoard.com or recently got the board replaced, and you’ve replaced the temperature sensor, but you’re still getting an F1, inspect these wire nuts!  The easiest way to find the wire nuts will be to follow the wiring with your hand (make sure the breaker is off) from the temperature sensor (or from the board if you know which wires go to the sensor).

You will likely find that the wiring inside the nut has rusted/corroded.  We recommend you cut off the already exposed portions of the wire and strip some insulation off, allowing “fresh” wire to be reconnected in a new wire nut.

Remember to have all your control board needs handled at FixYourBoard.com!

 

Part Numbers: 14-33-347, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258, 3169259, 486752

Model Numbers: RB160PXB02, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXYB6, RB170PXB02, RB170PXBB, RB170PXBQ2, RB260PBYQ, RB260PXB1, RB260PXBB1, RB260PXBB2, RB260PXBQ, RB260PXBQ1, RB260PXBQ2, RB260PXYB, RB260PXYB0, RB260PXYB1, RB260PXYQ, RB260PXYQ0, RB270PXBB0, RB270PXBB1, RB270PXBO1, RB270PXBQ2, RB270PXY, RB270PXYB, RB270PXYB RB270PXYB-0, RB270PXYB1, RB270PXYQ, RB270PXYQ0, RB270RXBB1, RB760POXYB2, RB760PXB, RB760PXB01, RB760PXBB0, RB760PXBB2, RB760PXBQ, RB760PXYQ, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXBQ1, RB770PXBQ2, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RDDS30, RDDS30QVB, RDDS30RS, RDDS30RVS, RDDS30V, RDDS30VPS, RDDS30VQ, RDDS30VQB, RDDS30VQS, RDDS30VQW, RDDS30VRS, RDDS30VRS/01, RDDS30VRS/02FD, RDDS30VRS/03SD, RDDS30VRS03, RDDS30VRSFD, RDDS30ZQB, RDF30, RDF30Q, RDF30QB, RDF30QS, RDF30QW, RDF30QW RDF30RS, RDF30RS, RDFS30, RDFS30QS, RDFS30QW, RDFS30RS, RDS30V, RDS530RS, RDSF30RS, RDSS30, RDSS304S, RDSS30Q, RDSS30QB, RDSS30QW, RDSS30QW RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS, RDSS30RS-02, RED30RS01, RED30V, RED30VQB RED30VQBK, RED30VQW, RED30VRS, REF30, REF30QS, REF30RS, RES30QW, RES30RS, RF396PXYN, RF768PXYQ, RFB260PXBQ2, RH770PXBQ2, RM765PXAB0, RM765PXBB2, RM770PXBB1, RM770PXBB2, RM770PXBQ2, RS6755XYN1, RS6755XYW0, RS675PXBQ1, RS675PXBQ2, RS675PXYQ0, RS677PXYQ, RS696B02, RS696PXBB2, RS696PXYB, RS696PXYB0, RS696PXYB2, RS696TXYQ02, RS69PXBB3, RSS30RS, RX260PXYQ01, W305B, WPLRM770PXAB0

Evaporator Fan Installation Kit For KSS, KSC, and other Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kenmore/JennAir/Maytag Refrigerators

Another helpful tip from the members of a PCB repair shop!

bizcard_gen_small

There has been a lot of confusion surrounding the installation process of a new evaporator fan motor for these KitchenAid (and other Whirlpool Corp.) refrigerators.  Whirlpool provides one replacement kit that is applicable to three different style of refrigerators.  Depending on which style refrigerator you have, you may or may not have to use one of the two jumper harnesses included in the kit to connect the fan motor to the main control board.

Skip to the end of this post to read the installation instructions published by Whirlpool Corp…

BUT, we can sum it up for you in a much clearer fashion:

1) CUT POWER TO THE REFRIGERATOR.

2) Remove the original fan motor. Disconnect the fan motor from the jumper wiring harness that goes to the main control board, but leave this jumper harness in place.  Whirlpool suggests using a flat head screwdriver to unlock the plug, as it is fragile and can break.

3) Install the new fan motor where the old one used to be.

4) Depending on which style of refrigerator you have, you may or may not need to connect the motor to the control board via one of the two jumper wiring harnesses included in the kit:

REFRIGERATOR TYPEJUMPER TO BE USED
Built-in with bottom Freezer

Plain Jumper Harness for Built-in Refrigerators with Bottom Freezer



Add this harness between the original one and the new fan motor.
Counter Depth

Jumper Harness with Defrost Bi-metal for Counter Depth Refigerators



Remove the original bi-metal jumper harness and replace it with this new one.
Built-in Side by SideNONE. Simply, use the original jumper harness that was already in the refrigerator.

The installation kit should have include a black dot sticker.  After the fan motor replacement is complete, apply this sticker to the right of the main power ON/OFF switch behind the upper grille in the machine compartment.

Restore power to your fridge and everything should be good to go.  Remember, get your refrigerator control board problems solved by PCB repair companies!

 

Original Installation Instructions Per Whirlpool Corp.:

This evaporator motor service kit is supplied with one evaporator
motor that can be used for a KitchenAid built-in bottom freezer,
KitchenAid built-in side-by-side, or Counter Depth refrigerator.
This evaporator motor service kit is also supplied with a new
jumper harness for the KitchenAid built-in bottom freezer
(Figure 1) and a new defrost bi-metal harness for the Counter
Depth refrigerators (Figure 2).

Plain Jumper Harness for Built-in Refrigerators with Bottom Freezer

Figure 1: Plain Jumper Harness for Built-in Refrigerators with Bottom Freezer

NOTE: Must remove existing harness on Counter Depth ONLY
and replace with harness in the kit

If the evaporator motor is being replaced on one of these units,
the jumper harness connected to the motor must be removed
along with the old evaporator motor.

1. Unplug the refrigerator or disconnect power.

2. Use a small flat screwdriver to unlock the plug, slight
pressure is needed to release the lock. Use care, the lock
is easily broken. The two harnesses contained in the kit
are required when the new motor is being replaced.
Replacement of the harnesses to the individual product is
needed for a proper repair and for proper operation.

Jumper Harness with Defrost Bi-metal for Counter Depth Refigerators

Figure 2: Defrost Bi-Metal Jumper Harness for Counter Depth Refigerators

3. If the product is a Counter Depth refrigerator, the old
defrost bi-metal harness connected to the evaporator fan
jumper harness must be removed. This harness contains a
9-pin connector and the defrost bi-metal. For the Counter
Depth refrigerator ONLY, replace the old defrost bi-metal
harness with the new defrost bi-metal harness contained
in the kit (Figure 2).

If the product is a KitchenAid built-in bottom freezer,
connect the jumper harness (approximately 265-mm)
contained in the kit (Figure 1) to the new evaporator fan
motor.

If the product is a KitchenAid built-in side-by-side, no
jumper harness is needed.

Figure 3: Black Dot Sticker

Figure 3: Black Dot Sticker

4. Secure all connections.

5. Replace all parts and panels.

6. Plug in refrigerator or reconnect power.

7. Perform the service diagnostic mode by pressing and
holding the Water Filter Reset key first then the Power key
and hold both for 3 seconds. Verify that in step 3 of the
service diagnostic mode, the evaporator motor receives a
green LED indicator on the display for the Counter Depth
product or “01” on the display for the KitchenAid built-in
bottom freezer and for the KitchenAid built-in side-by-side
products.

NOTE: If the call service indicator is still flashing, press
the Over Temperature Reset key.

8. After replacement is completed, the black dot that is
included in this kit needs to be placed to the right of the
main power switch behind the upper grille in the machine
compartment. (See Figure 3.)

Defrost, Condenser, Temperature, or Other Problems in KSS, KSC and other Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Kenmore/JennAir/Maytag Refrigerators

Time for another quality blog from FixYourBoard.com!

Whirlpool Corporation and its subsidiaries have made heavy use of this control board in their refrigerators, but now it is failing at a high rate after just having been obsoleted.  Lists of relevant part numbers and model numbers are available at the end of this article.

Your refrigerator may seem fine some or most of the time, but you get a sense that it’s on the way out – intermittent operation of various features, drooping temperature, etc.  This is likely because the power supply on its control board is failing.  Other common failures due to this board are that the condenser fan won’t run and the defrost heater doesn’t work.  The objective of this blog is to help you identify if the control board is the source of your refrigerator’s problems.     If you determine the board is bad, be sure to visit www.FixYourBoard.com to send it in for repair and get it back good as new – at a fraction of the cost of buying a new part or model!

You’ll want to have DC voltmeter handy.

The built-in refrigerators usually house the control board in the top of the unit, and it is relatively easy to access from the front side.  You can always reference www.appliancepartspros.com with your model number to see where the board goes in the unit.  We recommend that you cut the breaker to your appliance before taking it apart so as to minimize the risk of seriously harming yourself or the appliance through electrical shorts.  Once you have access to the board and can comfortably probe it with your voltmeter, be sure to keep all the connections in place and throw the breaker back on.  Below is an image of the control board with highlights of the necessary measurements.  Your board will still have all the wires connected, but you can still stick your meter probes down into the sockets alongside the wires.

The first thing to do,  is measure the DC voltage across pins 9 and 11 on the P7 wiring connector.  The meter should read right around 12VDC.

Now, on the main control panel, press and hold the filter reset button and then immediately press and hold the power button.   Holding both in simultaneously for few seconds should send the refrigerator into Service Diagnostic Mode.  Press the ‘temperature scroll up’ button until you are in Mode 4.  Repeat the above measurement.

If either the first or second measurements yield a reading less than 11.5 VDC, the power supply circuit in the control board has definitely failed and needs to be repaired.  Go to www.FixYourBoard.com, click on the ‘How To Ship’ tab, print out the shipping form, and send it in!

W10121049 Troubleshooting Defrost, Condenser, and Temperature Problems

With a DC Voltmeter, measure these pins. W10121049 – Troubleshooting for Defrost, Condenser fans problems

Hope this helps resolve your home refrigeration issues!

-Young Padawan

PART NUMBERS:

2223343, 2252111, 2303934, 2307005, 2307028, W10185291, W10219463

MODEL NUMBERS:

10641522500, 10641523500, 10641524500, 10641529500, 10644022600, 10644022601, 10644022602, 10644022603, 10644023600, 10644023601, 10644023602, 10644023603, 10644024600, 10644029600, 10644029601, 10644029602, 10644029603, 10644032600, 10644032601, 10644032602, 10644032603, 10644033600, 10644033601, 10644033602, 10644033603, 10644034600, 10644039600, 10644039601, 10644039602, 10644039603, 10644322400, 10644323400, 10644324400, 10644329400, 10644422600, 10644422601, 10644422602, 10644422603, 10644423600, 10644423601, 10644423602, 10644423603, 10644424600, 10644424601, 10644424602, 10644424603, 10644429600, 10644429601, 10644429602, 10644429603, 10644432600, 10644432601, 10644432602, 10644432603, 10644433600, 10644433601, 10644433602, 10644433603, 10644434600, 10644434601, 10644434602, 10644434603, 10644439600, 10644439601, 10644439602, 10644439603, EC3JHAXRL00, EC3JHAXRL01, EC3JHAXRS00, EC3JHAXRS01, GC3NHAXSB00, GC3NHAXSQ00, GC3NHAXST00, GC3NHAXSY00, GC3NHAXVA00, GC3NHAXVA01, GC3NHAXVB00, GC3NHAXVB01, GC3NHAXVQ00, GC3NHAXVQ01, GC3NHAXVS00, GC3NHAXVS01, GC3NHAXVY00, GC3NHAXVY01, GC3PHEXNB00, GC3PHEXNB01, GC3PHEXNB02, GC3PHEXNB03, GC3PHEXNQ00, GC3PHEXNQ01, GC3PHEXNQ02, GC3PHEXNQ03, GC3PHEXNS00, GC3PHEXNS01, GC3PHEXNS02, GC3PHEXNS03, GC3PHEXNT00, GC3PHEXNT01, GC3PHEXNT02, GC3PHEXNT03, GC3SHEXNB00, GC3SHEXNB01, GC3SHEXNB02, GC3SHEXNB03, GC3SHEXNB04, GC3SHEXNQ00, GC3SHEXNQ01, GC3SHEXNQ02, GC3SHEXNQ03, GC3SHEXNQ04, GC3SHEXNS00, GC3SHEXNS01, GC3SHEXNS02, GC3SHEXNS03, GC3SHEXNS04, GC3SHEXNT00, GC3SHEXNT01, GC3SHEXNT02, GC3SHEXNT03, GC3SHEXNT04, GC5NHAXSB00, GC5NHAXSB01, GC5NHAXSB02, GC5NHAXSB03, GC5NHAXSQ00, GC5NHAXSQ01, GC5NHAXSQ02, GC5NHAXSQ03, GC5NHAXST00, GC5NHAXST01, GC5NHAXST02, GC5NHAXST03, GC5NHAXSY00, GC5NHAXSY01, GC5NHAXSY02, GC5NHAXSY03, GC5NHAXVB00, GC5NHAXVB01, GC5NHAXVQ00, GC5NHAXVQ01, GC5NHAXVS00, GC5NHAXVS01, GC5NHAXVY00, GC5NHAXVY01, GC5SHEXNB00, GC5SHEXNB01, GC5SHEXNB02, GC5SHEXNB03, GC5SHEXNB04, GC5SHEXNB05, GC5SHEXNQ00, GC5SHEXNQ01, GC5SHEXNQ02, GC5SHEXNQ03, GC5SHEXNQ04, GC5SHEXNQ05, GC5SHEXNS00, GC5SHEXNS01, GC5SHEXNS02, GC5SHEXNS03, GC5SHEXNS04, GC5SHEXNS05, GC5SHEXNT00, GC5SHEXNT01, GC5SHEXNT02, GC5SHEXNT03, GC5SHEXNT04, GC5SHEXNT05, GC5THEXNB00, GC5THEXNB01, GC5THEXNB02, GC5THEXNB03, GC5THEXNQ00, GC5THEXNQ01, GC5THEXNQ02, GC5THEXNQ03, GC5THEXNS00, GC5THEXNS01, GC5THEXNS02, GC5THEXNS03, GC5THEXNT00, GC5THEXNT01, GC5THEXNT02, GC5THEXNT03, JCB2488MTR00, JCB2581WES00, JCB2582WEF00, JCB2582WEY00, JCB2585WEP00, JCB2585WEP01, JCB2585WES00, JCB2585WES01, JCB2587WEF00, JCB2587WEY00, JCB2588WER00, JCD2395WES00, JCD2395WES01, JCD2395WES02, JCD2591WES00, JCD2595WEK00, JCD2595WEK01, JCD2595WEP00, JCD2595WEP01, JCD2595WES00, JCD2595WES01, JF42CXFXDB00, JF42CXFXDB01, JF42NXFXDW00, JF42NXFXDW01, JF42PPFXDB00, JF42PPFXDB01, JF42SEFXDB00, JF42SEFXDB01,KBLC36FMS01, KBLC36FMS02, KBLO36FMX01, KBLO36FMX02, KBLP36FMS02, KBLS36FMB01, KBLS36FMB02, KBLS36FMX01, KBLS36FMX02, KBLV36FPM01, KBLV36FPM02, KBLV36FPS01, KBLV36FPS02, KBRC36FMS01, KBRC36FMS02, KBRO36FMX01, KBRO36FMX02, KBRP36FMS01, KBRP36FMS02, KBRS36FMB01, KBRS36FMB02, KBRS36FMX01, KBRS36FMX02, KBRV36FPM01, KBRV36FPM02, KBRV36FPS01, KBRV36FPS02, KBUDT4265E04, KBURT3665E01, KSBP23INSS00, KSBP23INSS01, KSBP25INSS00, KSBP25INSS01, KSBP25INSS02, KSBP25INSS03, KSBP25IVSS00, KSBP25IVSS01, KSBS23INBL00, KSBS23INBL01, KSBS23INBT00, KSBS23INBT01, KSBS23INSS00, KSBS23INSS01, KSBS23INWH00, KSBS23INWH01, KSBS25INBL00, KSBS25INBL01, KSBS25INBL02, KSBS25INBL03, KSBS25INBT00, KSBS25INBT01, KSBS25INBT02, KSBS25INBT03, KSBS25INSS00, KSBS25INSS01, KSBS25INSS02, KSBS25INSS03, KSBS25INWH00, KSBS25INWH01, KSBS25INWH02, KSBS25INWH03, KSBS25IVBL00, KSBS25IVBL01, KSBS25IVSS00, KSBS25IVSS01, KSBS25IVWH00, KSBS25IVWH01, KSCS23FSBL00, KSCS23FSBL01, KSCS23FSBL02, KSCS23FSBL03, KSCS23FSBT00, KSCS23FSBT01, KSCS23FSBT02, KSCS23FSBT03, KSCS23FSMS00, KSCS23FSMS01, KSCS23FSMS02, KSCS23FSMS03, KSCS23FSSS02, KSCS23FSSS03, KSCS23FSWH00, KSCS23FSWH01, KSCS23FSWH02, KSCS23FSWH03, KSCS23FTBL00, KSCS23FTBL01, KSCS23FTBL02, KSCS23FTBT00, KSCS23FTBT01, KSCS23FTBT02, KSCS23FTMS00, KSCS23FTMS01, KSCS23FTMS02, KSCS23FTSS00, KSCS23FTSS01, KSCS23FTSS02, KSCS23FTWH00, KSCS23FTWH01, KSCS23FTWH02, KSCS23FVBL00, KSCS23FVBL01, KSCS23FVBL02, KSCS23FVBL03, KSCS23FVMK00, KSCS23FVMK01, KSCS23FVMK02, KSCS23FVMK03, KSCS23FVMS00, KSCS23FVMS01, KSCS23FVMS02, KSCS23FVMS03, KSCS23FVSS00, KSCS23FVSS01, KSCS23FVSS02, KSCS23FVSS03, KSCS23FVWH00, KSCS23FVWH01, KSCS23FVWH02, KSCS23FVWH03, KSCS23INBL00, KSCS23INBL01, KSCS23INBL02, KSCS23INBL03, KSCS23INBT00, KSCS23INBT01, KSCS23INBT02, KSCS23INBT03, KSCS23INMS00, KSCS23INMS01, KSCS23INMS02, KSCS23INMS03, KSCS23INSS00, KSCS23INSS01, KSCS23INSS02, KSCS23INSS03, KSCS23INWH00, KSCS23INWH01, KSCS23INWH02, KSCS23INWH03, KSCS25FSBL00, KSCS25FSBL01, KSCS25FSBL02, KSCS25FSBL03, KSCS25FSBT00, KSCS25FSBT01, KSCS25FSBT02, KSCS25FSBT03, KSCS25FSMS00, KSCS25FSMS01, KSCS25FSMS02, KSCS25FSMS03, KSCS25FSSS01, KSCS25FSSS02, KSCS25FSSS03, KSCS25FSWH00, KSCS25FSWH01, KSCS25FSWH02, KSCS25FSWH03, KSCS25FTBL00, KSCS25FTBL01, KSCS25FTBL02, KSCS25FTBT00, KSCS25FTBT01, KSCS25FTBT02, KSCS25FTMK00, KSCS25FTMK01, KSCS25FTMK02, KSCS25FTMS00, KSCS25FTMS01, KSCS25FTMS02, KSCS25FTSS00, KSCS25FTSS01, KSCS25FTSS02, KSCS25FTWH00, KSCS25FTWH01, KSCS25FTWH02, KSCS25FVBL00, KSCS25FVBL01, KSCS25FVBL02, KSCS25FVBL03, KSCS25FVBT00, KSCS25FVBT01, KSCS25FVBT02, KSCS25FVBT03, KSCS25FVMK00, KSCS25FVMK01, KSCS25FVMK02, KSCS25FVMK03, KSCS25FVMS00, KSCS25FVMS01, KSCS25FVMS02, KSCS25FVMS03, KSCS25FVSS00, KSCS25FVSS01, KSCS25FVSS02, KSCS25FVSS03, KSCS25FVWH00, KSCS25FVWH01, KSCS25FVWH02, KSCS25FVWH03, KSCS25INBL00, KSCS25INBL01, KSCS25INBL02, KSCS25INBL03, KSCS25INBT00, KSCS25INBT01, KSCS25INBT02, KSCS25INBT03, KSCS25INMS00, KSCS25INMS01, KSCS25INMS02, KSCS25INMS03, KSCS25INSS00, KSCS25INSS01, KSCS25INSS02, KSCS25INSS03, KSCS25INWH00, KSCS25INWH01, KSCS25INWH02, KSCS25INWH03, KSCS25MSMS00, KSCS25MSMS01, KSCS25MTMK00, KSCS25MTMK01, KSCS25MTMS00, KSCS25MTMS01, KSCS25MVMK00, KSCS25MVMS00, KSSC36FMS01, KSSC36FMS02, KSSC36FMS03, KSSC36QMS01, KSSC36QMS02, KSSC36QMS03, KSSC42FMS01, KSSC42FMS02, KSSC42FMS03, KSSC42QMS01, KSSC42QMS02, KSSC42QMS03, KSSC42QMU01, KSSC48FMS01, KSSC48FMS02, KSSC48FMS03, KSSC48QMS01, KSSC48QMS02, KSSC48QMS03, KSSO36FMX01, KSSO36FMX02, KSSO36FMX03, KSSO36QMB01, KSSO36QMB02, KSSO36QMB03, KSSO36QMW01, KSSO36QMX02, KSSO42FMX01, KSSO42FMX02, KSSO42FMX03, KSSO42QMB01, KSSO42QMB02, KSSO42QMB03, KSSO42QMW01, KSSO42QMX01, KSSO42QMX02, KSSO48FMX01, KSSO48FMX02, KSSO48FMX03, KSSO48QMB01, KSSO48QMB02, KSSO48QMB03, KSSO48QMW01, KSSO48QMX02, KSSP36QMS01, KSSP36QMS02, KSSP36QMS03, KSSP42QMS01, KSSP42QMS02, KSSP42QMS03, KSSP48QMS01, KSSP48QMS02, KSSP48QMS03, KSSS36FMB01, KSSS36FMB02, KSSS36FMX01, KSSS36FMX02, KSSS36FMX03, KSSS36QMB01, KSSS36QMB02, KSSS36QMB03, KSSS36QMW01, KSSS36QMW02, KSSS36QMW03, KSSS36QMX01, KSSS36QMX02, KSSS36QMX03, KSSS42FMB01, KSSS42FMB02, KSSS42FMX01, KSSS42FMX02, KSSS42FMX03, KSSS42QMB01, KSSS42QMB02, KSSS42QMB03, KSSS42QMW01, KSSS42QMW02, KSSS42QMW03, KSSS42QMX01, KSSS42QMX02, KSSS42QMX03, KSSS48FMB01, KSSS48FMB02, KSSS48FMX01, KSSS48FMX02, KSSS48FMX03, KSSS48FMXO3, KSSS48QMB01, KSSS48QMB02, KSSS48QMB03, KSSS48QMW01, KSSS48QMW02, KSSS48QMW03, KSSS48QMX01, KSSS48QMX02, KSSS48QMX03, KSSV42FMM00, KSSV42FMM01, KSSV42FMM02, KSSV42FMS00, KSSV42FMS01, KSSV42FMS02

Dead Whirlpool? Built-In Oven 2DLSQ KAWE6 KEBI2 KEBS2 Series – No Beeps or Light

Another troubleshooting tip from www.FixYourBoard.com :

Dead Whirlpool Board?  Look like this?  If so, continue.

Whirlpool Control Board

8301924, 8301924, 4451986 Built In Oven Controller

Relevant Boards: 4448871, 8301924, 4451986

Relevant Models: 2DLSQ8000JQ0, KAWE660WAL1, KEBS207DAL1, KEBS207DAL2, KEBS207DAL4, KEBS207DAL6, KEBS207DBL1, KEBS207DBL2, KEBS207DBL4, KEBS207DBL6, KEBI206DBL8, KEBI206DWH8, KEBI276DBL7, KEBI276DWH7, KEBS207DBL7, KEBS207DBL8, KEBS207DBT7, KEBS207DBT8, KEBS207DWH7, KEBS207DWH8.

Since these control boards get a full functional test before leaving your facility, the unresponsive/dead control board is probably due to the transformer.  With an AC meter, this can easily be checked at the P17 / P800 10 pin connector.   The referred connector is the one shown below that is connected to the transformer:

P19 or P800 10 Pin Molex Connector

P19 or P800 10 Pin Molex Connector on Side of Board

Simply check the following voltages with your meter in AC mode.  The voltages are specified on the transformer.  If any of the secondary voltages (not black and white wires that should be 120V) are zero, you need a new transformer.

Black to White – 120Volts AC.  This is the input to the transformer so if this is bad, the problem may not be the transformer.  The input power going to P15

Brown to Brown – 25Volts AC

Yellow to Yellow – 23Volts AC

Purple to Purple – 7Volts AC

It is written on the transformer:

Common Whirlpool Transformer 9760589

Transformer for 4448871, 8301924, 4451986

In summary:

-If the the high voltage (120V on black and white) is zero then the input power into the board (check your wiring diagram) needs to be checked.

-If any of the low voltage measurements (less than 30V) are zero, replace the transformer and you should be good.

-If the input power to the board is 120V but the black and white 120V wires on the transformer are zero, the board is the problem.

Hope this helps.  If you are confident that the board is the issue, these can be fixed quickly and reliable at www.fixyourboard.com

Temperature Control Problems and F2,F3,F1 error codes with Whirlpool Series RB160 RB170 RS675 Built-In Ovens

If your oven has a controller that looks like this and has erratic temperature control issues, it is very likely a problem with the controller.  At www.FixYourBoard.com we commonly get questions regarding these controllers.

The electronic controllers can be referred to as any of the following: 3169255, 3169256, 3169257, 3169258,  3169259,  3182391, 3182392, 3184943

 

When the  temperature is erratic and the oven frequently has trouble reaching temperature, even an experienced tech may have difficulty troubleshooting.  It is difficult to nail down because once the temperature control circuit begins to fail, you will see heating elements not coming on or staying on too long at random times.  This can also lead to F1,F2 or F3 errors.  The good news is that any of these controllers can be rebuild quickly and reliably with a  success rate that is over 95%.

List of Whirlpool model numbers:

WPLRM770PXAB0, RB160PXBB0, RB160PXBB1, RB160PXBB2, RB160PXBQ0, RB160PXYB0, RB160PXYB2, RB160PXYB3,  RB160PXYB4,  RB160PXYQ0,  RB160PXYQ2,  RB160PXYQ3,  RB160PXYQ4, RB160PXYQ6,  RB170AM,  RB170PXBB, RS6755xyn, RB760PXB, RB270PXYB, RB260PXYB, RB260PXBB2,  RB270PXYB, RB260PXBQ2, RB770PXBB1, RB770PXYB, RB770PXYB5, RS696PXBB2,  RM765PXAB0, RM770PXBB2, RF396PXYN, RFB260PXBQ2, RF385PXYQ1,

 

Whirlpool Double Oven (Gold, GBD, RBD series) not heating? Could be an open thermal fuse.

Hello!

Today’s article will help you figure out why the bake/broil elements in your oven(s) aren’t heating up, even though the control panel seems to be operating perfectly.  In fact, you may even have recently received a refurbished/repaired control unit from www.FixYourBoard.com, but the oven still won’t heat up.  Fear no longer – this blog will get you on the right track in no time.

This guide is for troubleshooting Whirlpool double ovens – please refer to the list of relevant part and model numbers at the bottom of this blog to ensure you are in the right place.

First off, does your control panel seem to be functional? If the display isn’t illuminated, and there are no beeps when you press buttons, but you’re positive you’ve properly hooked up the control board and have the breaker on, then you may have an issue with the power supply to the control board.  Please refer to this guide for troubleshooting the power supply.

So everything seems to be properly connected.   You set the oven to bake, the display shows that the heat is on (the door needs to be closed), but the oven elements aren’t heating up at all, and the control is not throwing any error codes.  This is almost certainly being cause by an open “oven shutdown thermal fuse”.  There is one of these fuses for both the lower oven and the upper oven, each.  Hopefully, you’re only having this problem in one of the two, but it wouldn’t be too surprising if both thermal fuses went out, and it’s not hard to replace them.   Now, if the elements do heat up, even if it’s just a little bit, then the problem is either with the oven (temperature) sensor or the oven control board – please refer to this blog for troubleshooting that issue.

 

CUT THE BREAKER!!! These next steps involve measuring circuit elements that run at HIGH VOLTAGE WHICH CAN KILL YOU when the breaker is on.

You’ll want to have a DMM or DVM (Digital Multi/Voltage Meter) that can measure electrical resistance.  There is a large variety of inexpensive meters available.  Below are two different kinds of meters – both are set to check for electrical resistance of up to 200 ohms (Ω).  Set your meter to the 200 Ω scale, and make sure the probes are connected to the common (black) and voltage (red) ports.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

Typical Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) set to the 200 Ω scale.

First, let’s make sure the actual heating elements are not the problem.  You need to have the control board exposed, but still hooked up to the oven, and THE BREAKER SHOULD BE OFF. Near the element relays are the wiring tabs where the heating elements connect to the control board.  The upper oven elements are fed by the set of tabs labeled P18.  There should be two black wires on the two center tabs, and a red wire and an orange wire which connect to the outside tabs.  Stick your probes into the sockets where the orange and red wires connect to the board – you should be in the ballpark of 50 Ω.  The lower oven is fed by the other set of tabs, labeled P26.  Here, we want to stick the probes into the sockets occupied by the red (outside) and orange (center) wires – should also be around 50 Ω.   If these measurements check out, skip the rest of this paragraph.  If either one of these measurements are significantly far from 50 Ω (e.g. <35 Ω or >65 Ω) , or especially if the meter over-ranges (usually meters display a “1” on the far right of the screen when they over-range), then you need to individually inspect the element(s) in question.  Oven models are unique so I can’t give specific information on how to extract the heating elements from the oven cavity – you may want to have a technician do this with you – but it’s usually just a matter of removing some mounting screws, and you may have to get behind the oven to disconnect the wiring.  The heating elements are essentially long metal rods bent into a radiator-like shape (they’re basically radiators, after all).  The resistance from end-to-end of a broil (top) element should be about 20 Ω, and it should be about 30 Ω for a bake (bottom) element.  If any of these elements fail to meet approximate spec, they should probably be replaced – contact a technician.  If the elements are fine, but the measurements on the control board were bad, then it’s a wiring/connection issue.

So the elements aren’t the problem, but the thermal fuses could still definitely be bad – let’s see.  For these ovens, there are two different styles of control boards, which we’ll refer to as 2319 and 2697.  The easy way to tell which one you have is by looking at the right side of the back of the board: if it has two DLB (Double Line Break; photos below) relays, then it is a 2319, otherwise it’s a 2967.  Go to the appropriate paragraph.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302967 – no DLB relays.

Whirlpool Double Oven Control Board 8302319 – has DLB relays.

Often, Whirlpool Control Board 8302319 is in a Plastic Case.

Troubleshooting 2319

Your board has the DLB relays.   Let’s check the upper oven thermal fuse first.  The upper oven DLB relay should have two solid red wires connected to it, and we need to figure out which one to use for the fuse test.  First, with your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, hold a probe to each of the contacts for the red wires – it should over-range, meaning that it is an open circuit (if your meter registers any resistance within the 200 Ω scale, then the relay is stuck and you need to send the board to www.FixYourBoard.com to be repaired).  Now, look at the other (lower oven) DLB relay.  This one should have one solid red wire, and one red wire with a white stripe.  The solid red wire on the lower oven DLB relay should be in closed circuit to one of the solid red wires on the upper oven DLB relay, and it should be open circuit to the other solid red wire.  Use your meter to find out which one – the meter should register a value (somewhere around 20-30 Ω) for the closed circuit, and it should over-range for the open circuit.  We want to use the solid red wire on the upper oven DLB that is open circuit to the solid red wire on the lower oven DLB.  Hold one of the probes to the contact for that solid red wire, and stick the other probe into either the orange or red wire socket connected to the P18 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced – take a note of that for now.

Now let’s look at the lower oven thermal fuse.  Hold one of your probes to the contact for the red wire with a white stripe that connects to the lower oven DLB relay.  Stick the other probe into the orange wire socket connected to the P26 tabs.  This should be a closed circuit.  If it is an open circuit, the upper oven thermal fuse is open and needs to be replaced.  Skip the 2967 troubleshooting paragraph to see about replacing these fuses.

Troubleshooting 2967

Your board does not have the DLB relays.  With your meter set to the 200 Ω scale, stick one of the probes into the socket for either the red or the orange wire that connects to the P18 tabs on the board.  Stick the other probe into the socket for the orange wire that connects to the P26 tabs.  In normal conditions, this should be a closed circuit – the meter should read a value around 40-60 Ω.  If the meter over-ranges, then either one or both of the thermal fuses are open.

Bad Thermal Fuse

The meter has told us one or both of the thermal fuses are bad.  These are mounted on the rear panel(s) of the oven(s), so you’re going to have to pull the double oven out from the kitchen wall to access them.  Open up the rear panel(s) of the oven(s) (some hardware will probably required), and you should find the thermal fuses mounted on the panel.  A red wire and an orange wire should be connected to one side of the fuse, while just one red wire is connected to the other side of the fuse.  This will be true of both the upper and lower thermal fuses, with one exception: if your oven is not self-cleaning, the lower thermal fuse will only have one orange wire on one side and one red wire on the other.  Disconnect the wiring and unmount the suspect fuse(s).  Use your meter to verify that the fuse(s) is/are open – holding one probe to each of the contacts should result in over-ranging in the 200 Ω scale if the fuse is open.  Contact a local appliance parts supplier or a site like www.RepairClinic.com to find the necessary replacement according to the part number and/or color markings on the fuse…

Color Markings___________Whirlpool Part Number

Pink/White Stripe__________4452223

Yellow/White Stripe________4451442

Red ____________________4450934

Orange/White Stripe________4450334

Blue____________________4450250

Green/White Stripe_________4450249

Blue/White Stripe__________8300802

Well that wraps it up! Hope all goes well in the kitchen, and always feel free to contact www.FixYourBoard.com for inquiries into control board repair/maintenance.

-Young Padawan

Model Numbers:

GBD277PDB09, GBD277PDB10, GBD277PDB2, GBD277PDB3, GBD277PDB4, GBD277PDB5, GBD277PDB6, GBD277PDB7, GBD277PDB8, GBD277PDQ09, GBD277PDQ10, GBD277PDQ2, GBD277PDQ3, GBD277PDQ4, GBD277PDQ5, GBD277PDQ6, GBD277PDQ7, GBD277PDQ8, GBD277PDS09, GBD277PDS10, GBD277PDS2, GBD277PDS3, GBD277PDS4, GBD277PDS5, GBD277PDS6, GBD277PDS7, GBD277PDS8, GBD277PDT09, GBD277PDT10, GBD277PDT7, GBD277PDT8, GBD277PRB00, GBD277PRB01, GBD277PRB03, GBD277PRQ00, GBD277PRQ01, GBD277PRQ03, GBD277PRS00, GBD277PRS01, GBD277PRS02, GBD277PRS03, GBD277PRT00, GBD307PDB09, GBD307PDB10, GBD307PDB2, GBD307PDB3, GBD307PDB4, GBD307PDB5, GBD307PDB6, GBD307PDB7, GBD307PDQ09, GBD307PDQ10, GBD307PDQ2, GBD307PDQ3, GBD307PDQ4, GBD307PDQ5, GBD307PDQ6, GBD307PDQ7, GBD307PDS09, GBD307PDS10, GBD307PDS2, GBD307PDS3, GBD307PDS4, GBD307PDS5, GBD307PDS6, GBD307PDS7, GBD307PDT09, GBD307PDT10, GBD307PDT3, GBD307PDT4, GBD307PDT5, GBD307PDT6, GBD307PDT7, GBD307PRB00, GBD307PRB01, GBD307PRB03, GBD307PRQ00, GBD307PRQ01, GBD307PRS00, GBD307PRS01, GBD307PRS02, GBD307PRT00, GBD307PRY01, KBRP36MHT00, KBRP36MHW00, LTG6234DT5, RBD245PDB10, RBD245PDB11, RBD245PDB12, RBD245PDB14, RBD245PDB15, RBD245PDB7, RBD245PDB8, RBD245PDB9, RBD245PDQ10, RBD245PDQ11, RBD245PDQ12, RBD245PDQ14, RBD245PDQ15, RBD245PDQ7, RBD245PDQ8, RBD245PDQ9, RBD245PDS12, RBD245PDS14, RBD245PDS15, RBD245PDT10, RBD245PDT11, RBD245PDT12, RBD245PDT14, RBD245PDT15, RBD245PDT8, RBD245PDT9, RBD245PRB00, RBD245PRQ00, RBD245PRS00, RBD245PRS01, RBD245PRT00, RBD275PDB10, RBD275PDB11, RBD275PDB12, RBD275PDB13, RBD275PDB14, RBD275PDB15, RBD275PDB7, RBD275PDB8, RBD275PDB9, RBD275PDQ10, RBD275PDQ11, RBD275PDQ12, RBD275PDQ13, RBD275PDQ14, RBD275PDQ15, RBD275PDQ7, RBD275PDQ8, RBD275PDQ9, RBD275PDS12, RBD275PDS14, RBD275PDS15, RBD275PDT10, RBD275PDT11, RBD275PDT12, RBD275PDT13, RBD275PDT14, RBD275PDT15, RBD275PDT8, RBD275PDT9, RBD275PRB00, RBD275PRQ00, RBD275PRS00, RBD275PRS01, RBD275PRT00, RBD276PDB10, RBD276PDB11, RBD276PDB12, RBD276PDB7, RBD276PDB8, RBD276PDB9, RBD276PDQ10, RBD276PDQ11, RBD276PDQ12, RBD276PDQ7, RBD276PDQ8, RBD276PDQ9, RBD277PDB1, RBD277PDB2, RBD277PDB4, RBD277PDQ1, RBD277PDQ2, RBD277PDQ4, RBD305PDB10, RBD305PDB11, RBD305PDB12, RBD305PDB13, RBD305PDB14, RBD305PDB15, RBD305PDB7, RBD305PDB8, RBD305PDB9, RBD305PDQ10, RBD305PDQ11, RBD305PDQ12, RBD305PDQ13, RBD305PDQ14, RBD305PDQ15, RBD305PDQ7, RBD305PDQ8, RBD305PDQ9, RBD305PDS12, RBD305PDS14, RBD305PDS15, RBD305PDT11, RBD305PDT12, RBD305PDT13, RBD305PDT14, RBD305PDT15, RBD305PRB00, RBD305PRQ00, RBD305PRS00, RBD305PRT00, RBD306PDB10, RBD306PDB11, RBD306PDB12, RBD306PDB13, RBD306PDB14, RBD306PDB15, RBD306PDB7, RBD306PDB8, RBD306PDB9, RBD306PDQ10, RBD306PDQ11, RBD306PDQ12, RBD306PDQ13, RBD306PDQ14, RBD306PDQ15, RBD306PDQ7, RBD306PDQ8, RBD306PDQ9, RBD306PDT11, RBD306PDT12, RBD306PDT13, RBD306PDT14, RBD306PDT15, RBD306PDZ10, RBD306PDZ7, RBD306PDZ8, RBD306PDZ9, YGBD307PDQ6, YGBD307PDB7, YGBD307PDQ7

Part Numbers:

4451856, 4451991, 4452890, 4452898, 4453664, 8301345, 8301908, 8301917, 8302319, 8302967, 8303817, 8303883, 4451992, 4452891, 8302966

Whirlpool RM278, RM288 series with common failures (Blanking display, F1, F2 and F3 errors, random resetting and beeping)

3148270, 3148271, 3148272, 3148273, 3148274, 3148275 are common control boards that have been showing up at www.FixYourBoard.com.   They fit into the following model numbers:  RM288PXS0, RM288PXV4, RM288PXV5,  RM288PXV6,  RM288PXV7,  RM278BXS0,  RM278BXV0,  RM278BXV2,  RM278BXV4,  RM278BXV5, RM278BXV6 ,RM278BXV7.  There are slight variations in color and functionality, but they are similar to the following:

The common failures are blanking display, random clock resets, F1, F2, F2 errors, and beeping/chirping noises.    No worries, all these symptoms can be repaired.  There is no reason to buy new as the warranty on refurbished timers is longer that a new.  Contact www.fixyourboard.com for more information.